Just to the left of Beginner's Delight lies this obscure route. You rarely see people on it, as you have Asphodel to the left and a plethora of starred routes to the right.
There are reasons why people generally aren't on it.
The Gray Dick has this rated at 5.5- PG; the book lies horribly. I would rate this at 5.5+ to 5.6, PG-13 to R. I placed in total, for three pitches, 15 pieces of gear -- that's 15 pieces of gear in 200 feet, and I used five on the first pitch (70 feet). Admittedly, the last two pitches go a true 5.3 so I didn't need much on them -- but the crux first pitch is extremely run-out and wanders back and forth. The crux might be easier if you're taller, but a friend of mine on Beginner's Delight watched me pull through it and thought it was a 5.7 or harder.
Location
Approximately 50 feet left of Beginner's Delight, atop a ledge with a 3rd/4th class scramble up to a large tree about 10 feet off the ground. You actually share the 2nd pitch belay ledge with Beginner's Delight; BD is on the right, BL is on the left.
Rappel with double ropes off the Beginner's Delight rap station -- doubles will reach the 4th-class scramble below and will avoid the manky stations in between -- or walk 50 feet to climber's right to the Minty rappel station; three rappels with a 60M or two rappels with doubles will get you down. It would not be in your best interests to use the Beginner's Delight rappel with one 60M rope; you'd have to rappel three times, and the last rappel is off a tree only slightly larger than my upper arm. Scary stuff. If you have one rope, use the Minty rappel.
Protection
P1: scarce, tricky, and barely adequate to make PG-13. If anything blows, you're going to deck. Bring a screamer for the crux, and make sure you pray -- that piton is rather manky. A large Lowe-Ball might not be a bad idea to protect just below the crux. At the belay ledge, use ingenuity to build an anchor, and tell your second not to fall.
P2 & 3: fairly straight-forward climbing, typical Gunks. These two pitches go at a true 5.3, no sand to be found, and protect at around PG; the cruxes of both pitches protect well.
I don't recall the crux being that hard or the gear being that sketch (albeit definitely PG), but this climb was historically seldom done so there was no chalk and route finding was tricky (the book description is vague). It would be easy to get off route. This might change now that it gets a star in the new Williams' Guide.
P3 is boring and has some loose rock. Better just to finish on P3 of Beginner's Delight.
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