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Asphodel 

5.5 PG13

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.5 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 120 feet
Views: 396 page views

Submitted By: Taino on Mar 29, 2007


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View from the face climb section below the belay


Description 

Named for a white and yellow flower in the lily family that, according to Homer's Odyssey, grows in abundance in the hereafter. This route had either no or one stars in the old guidebooks, and wasn't mentioned in the Williams Select guide either. However, with the new "Gray Dick", it was awarded three stars - and rightfully so. Great route, protection thin but solid, crux is well-protected with some thought, and there's some very heady, lower-angle face-climbing to end off the pitch. Pitch two, however, is very much not worth doing - overgrown, little protection, and very difficult communication.


Location 

Start at a large, yellow right-facing corner, 120 feet left of Beginner's Delight and just to the right of Welcome To The Gunks. Climb the left-facing corner - watch for loose blocks - to the roof (crux) then climb much easier terrain to a belay near the top of Welcome to the Gunks. P2: bushwack through tons of shrubbery over uninspiring rock to the very top. Not worth it, IMHO.


Protection 

There's just enough protection to make this PG; the crux protects well although it requires a bit of thought, and above it can be run-out - but the terrain is literally 5.3 or so. Puzzling gear anchor for the belay. Most people rappel after the first pitch, from the top of Welcome to the Gunks - this rappel requires either two 60m ropes, or an intermediate rappel off some old, scary-looking pitons and fixed gear.



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By Bob Hayes
Mar 30, 2007
rating: 5.5 PG13

Great moves and a good committing route at the grade. However, as mentioned in the description above, as of last spring ('06), there was at least one very large block in the corner that was about ready to part ways with the wall. This thing is big, but moves easily... too easily. I don't envy the climber that pulls it down, or the belayer that happens to be holding the rope the day it goes. I'll second the PG13 because of the block, when it's gone it'll be PG. Climb gingerly... it's a great line otherwise.