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The Sting 

5.11d

   

FA: Russ Clune, Dan McMillian and Russ Raffa, 1983
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11d [details]
Views: 292 page views

Submitted By: Jay Knower on Dec 18, 2006


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Getting set up for the boulder problem, which is a...


Description 

Locate the short, clean wall to the right of the Yellow Wall. The Sting climbs up a series of horizontals (what else?) on the right side of the wall.

The start holds a V3ish boulder problem that is slightly spicy considering the lack of gear and the menacing boulder just to your left. Great gear can be found at the first horizontal. The good holds continue to the final boulder problem before the anchors. I was told that the beta is a full-on double dyno to the ledge, but I have reason to believe that this person hosed me on the beta, thus making me fall and laughing at me. A small crimp offers a static alternative to the ill-advised dyno.

After the bouldery start, The Sting is a well-protected, pumpy route that climbs more like a sport route given its big moves and relatively steep angle.


Protection 

Cams up to 3+ inches.



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By Bob D'Antonio
From: Superior, CO
Dec 12, 2007

FA-Russ Clune, Dan McMillian and Russ Raffa.

Great route...one of the best in it grade at the Gunks.

By Tim Schafstall
From: Newark, DE
Apr 24, 2008
rating: 5.11d

Date for that first ascent is 1983. As one might guess from the description, this climb is harder for the vertically challenged. Most folks TR it after leading Lisa.