Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
The Trapps
Show routes:
Select route...
10,000 Restless Virgins 
48 
69 
Absurdland 
Airy Aria 
Alley Oop 
Anguish 
Annie Oh! 
Ants' Line 
Ape Call 
Apoplexy 
Arch 
Arch to Wrist 
Arrow 
Asphodel 
Baby 
Badfinger 
Bag's End 
Balrog 
BB Route 
Beatle Brow Bulge 
Beginner's Delight 
Belly Roll 
Betty 
Birdie Party 
Bitchy Virgin 
Blackout, The 
Blistered Toe 
Blueberry Ledges 
Bold-Ville 
Bonnie's Roof 
Boston 
Bunny 
Cakewalk 
Calisthenic 
Carbs and Caffeine 
Casa Emilio 
Casablanca 
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) 
CC Route 
CCK Direct 
City Lights 
City Streets 
Classic 
Coexistence 
Cold Turkeys 
Columbia 
Comedy In Three Acts 
Commando Rave 
Coronary 
Creaky Joints and Trigger Points 
Credibility Gap 
Crimson Corner 
Dangler, The 
Dennis 
Directissima 
Directississima 
Dirty Gerdie 
Double Chin 
Double Clutch 
Double Crack 
Drop Zone 
Drunkard's Delight 
Easy Overhang 
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) 
Ent Line 
Erect Direction 
Eyebrow 
Face to Face 
Fall, The 
Falled on Account of Strain 
Fancy Idiot 
Feast of Fools 
Finger Locks or Cedar Box 
Fitschen's Folly 
Friends and Lovers 
Frog's Head 
Frustration Syndrome 
Frustration Syndrome Direct Start 
Funny Face 
Golden Showers 
Gory Thumb 
Graveyard Shift 
Grim-Ace Face 
Groovy 
Han's Puss 
Harvard 
Hawk 
High Corner 
High Exposure 
Higher Stannard 
Horseman 
Hyjek's Horror 
Interstice 
Into Thin Hair 
Ivan and the Saum 
J'accuse 
Jackie 
Jacob's Ladder 
Jane 
Jean 
Junior 
Kama Sutra 
Keep on Struttin' 
Ken's Crack 
Kligfield's Follies 
Last Will Be First, The 
Laughing Man 
Laurel 
Le Teton 
Limelight 
Lisa 
Lito and the Swan 
Lone Ranger, The 
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst 
Maria 
Maria Direct 
Maria Redirect 
Matinee 
MF 
Middle Earth 
Minty 
Modern Times 
Moonlight 
Mother's Day Party 
Nemesis 
Never Never Land 
Never Say Never 
Nice Crack Climb 
No Glow 
No Man's Land 
No Picnic 
Northern Pillar 
Nosedive 
Nurse's Aid 
Oblique Twique 
Obstacle Delusion 
On Any Monday 
P38 
Pas de Deux 
Peregrine 
Phoebe 
Pink Laurel 
PR 
Precarious Perch 
Proctor Silex 
Proctoscope 
Raubenheimer Special 
Raunchy 
Red Cabbage 
Red Pillar 
Retribution 
Rhododendron 
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) 
Ribs 
Ridicullissima 
RMC 
Roddy 
Scene of the Climb 
Sente 
Shockley's Ceiling 
Silly Dickin 
Simple Suff 
Sixish 
Sleepwalk 
Snooky's Return 
Something Interesting 
Son of Bitchy Virgin 
Son of Easy O 
Space Invaders 
Splashtic 
Spring, The (P1) 
Squiggles 
Squiggles Direct 
Stand, The 
Star Action 
Sting, The 
Stirrup Trouble 
Strictly From Nowhere 
Sundown 
Supper's Ready 
Susie A 
Tennish Anyone? 
Thin Slabs Direct 
Three Doves 
Three Pines 
Three Vultures 
Throne, The 
Tipsy Trees 
Tomorrow and Tomorrow and Tomorrow 
Tough Shift 
Trapped Like a Rat 
Travels With Charley 
Triangle 
Trigger Point 
Triple Bulges 
Try Again 
Turdland 
Twin Oaks 
Updraft 
Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth 
Ursula 
V-3 
Ventre de Boeuf 
Walter Mitty 
Wasp 
Wasp Stop 
Welcome to the Gunks 
Wet Dreams 
Where Fools Rush In 
Wild Horses 
Willie's Weep 
Winter, The 
Wisecrack 
Wonderland 
Wrist 
Yellow Wall, The 

Modern Times 

5.8+

   

FA: Dick WIlliams, Dave Craft, & Brian Carey - 1964
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 250 feet
Views: 1,870 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (24)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Mike Amato firing the wild crux of Modern Times. ...


Description 

Modern Times pulls a pretty wild roof on the second pitch -- hard to believe it's only 5.8+.

Use the High Exposure access trail to reach Modern Times. This is about a 17-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 13-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

Start 30' left of High Exposure below a slabby left-facing corner.

P1: Climb the corner and angle right to a dirt ledge. Climb up and a bit left and pass an overhang (crux) to the GT ledge. 5.7, 150'.

P2: Go 20' left and climb to the top of a huge flake. Traverse right to a notch in the roof at the top of the wall (there's a small tree growing horizontally out of the roof). Pull the roof (crux), continue up right past more overhangs, and traverse right to a belay on a small ledge. 5.8+, 100'.

Bring up your partner, then scramble to the top.


Protection 

Standard Rack.



Add Photo Photos of Modern Times
1976 pulling the crux roof. Exit Stage Left and Gem's Gym cut through the roofs further left. Psychedelic (5.8 and wild) climbs near the right edge of the photo.

1976 pulling the crux roof. Exit Stage Left and Ge...

Jeff Arliss dispensing with footwork.

Jeff Arliss dispensing with footwork.

Gwen Schwimmer on the first pitch.

Gwen Schwimmer on the first pitch.

Below the overhang on P1.

Below the overhang on P1.

In the middle of the P1 overhang.

In the middle of the P1 overhang.


Add Comment Comments on Modern Times
Show which comments
By Ron Olsen
Administrator
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 27, 2006

Fun face climbing on the first pitch, and classic, pumpy Gunks overhangs on the second. This route would be solid 5.9 at many other climbing areas. Two kneebar rests can be found on the second-pitch overhangs to ease the pump factor.

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 7, 2006
rating: 5.9

Regardless of its traditional grade, let's call a spade a spade. I think this route is 5.9... even in the Gunks.

By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
May 9, 2006

The roofs seemed much easier the second time. A) Because I was following this time and B) because I used the killer undercling to reach over the first/largest roof. Gaining the final ledge is the crux for me, as the flakes in front of you are super loose (like don't grab them at all) and it requires a high right foot and SCARY manteling, with huge swing potential.

By GoBotRocker
From: Spfld, Ma
Jul 4, 2006

As good as it's gonna get. It's a "reach and pullathon".

By GabeO
Oct 23, 2006
rating: 5.8+

I believe it really is 5.8, but not if you try to pull the last roof too early. You really want to do a low traverse, and then mantle once you get to where the hands and feet are better.

By Mr. Malloc
Nov 17, 2006
rating: 5.9

The most sand-bagged route in the Gunks. So many people have fallen off this route. The most exposure you can have without a license.

Try the exciting variation that I call Post-Modern times, if you dare...and you feel up to a 5.10a or 5.10b pump-fest. From the tree that sticks straight out from the cliff in the last pitch....instead of going up and right...go straight right...your hands stay at the tree level as you traverse for 20 feet. As you go, do chin-ups to place big (Yellow and Blue Camalots) in the perfect crack. As you traverse, your foot holds move farther away and then come back again. Just before you get to the grassy section, pull up through the 1-foot roof and finish on the clean face above.

Tell me how you like it.

By mobley
From: Haven, Ct
Apr 21, 2008
rating: 5.9

follower needs to be solid or know how to prusik!

By rgold
From: Poughkeepsie, NY
16 hours ago

Buy the guide to the Gunks by Zach Orenczak and Rachael Lynn and your prayers will be answered...Modern Times is now 5.10 b/c.