Up the middle of the face of the Herdie Gerdie block. Thin face moves between horizontals, with a line of fixed pins to point the way. Tree rap station/anchor on top can be backed up with gear. This is very fun climb despite being short. There is an 11a variation to the right that is seldom led and often toproped. Both are quality routes.
Location
Number 18 in the Grey Williams Guide. On the far left side of the Trapps, in the center of a huge block that's 20' off the carriage road. Not far left of Bunny, Retribution, and Nosedive.
Protection
Bring a few screamers if yer fat like me; those old fixed pins don't look so hot. Real small cams are helpful to back up the pins. Otherwise a few small-to-medium cams is all ya need to fill the remaining horizontals.