I'm just past the crux on Le Teton. Photo by Kayte...
Description
In any other part of the country this would easily be 5.10a, it actually reminds me of "Rosy Crucifixion" in Eldo but slightly less scary.
There are many variations to the top, pick one and go....the climb starts in the crack on the left-facing face below the tree.
Traverse into the crack and head straight up. It takes great gear all the way but it's pumpy to place. At the end of the crack traverse left under the energy-depleting roof and around the corner, clipping a couple of junky pins. From here head up and slightly right; don't clip the pin on your left; it will create to much drag. Instead, place a #2 Camalot with a long sling. Make a few more 5.8 moves to the top and belay at a two-bolt anchor.
Crux pitch is excellent. Strenuous, really on you for about 15 feet. Exposed for Gunks. Big holds; 5.7 if vertical. Those in marginal shape--as I was when led this--can step left to place gear and back to ledge to rest before committing. Don't bother with lower pitches. Scramble up 5.3 face just to the right of start to the good part.
By eric larson From: aurora, co Apr 22, 2008 rating: 5.9
greaaat pitch.. i wish it were longer though.. the moves are so much fun. the jug haul goes 5.8 probably, with the crux (for me) being the crack and traverse.. super exposed!
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