This is a great route that has a bit of everything on it from scary face climbing with little pro, to a well-protected crux at the end.
Start up the face ten feet right of Horseman to a small loose flake. Heaven help the person that falls on the gear placed behind it. It would rip right off the wall. From here you can either bust right to a tree or be a man and head up the roof. Put your game face on because their are a couple of balancy moves before you get to a good rest. Once you're past the roof head right to a set of chains.
Location
The Uberfall area
Protection
I usually bring a light rack with stoppers and finger-sized gear. I don't think you need anything bigger than a green #0.75 Camalot.
By Adam Catalano From: Albany, New York Jul 28, 2006
Stellar route. I didn't feel that the the opening face was too sketchy. There is one flake of question, and if you can put very little pressure on it and climb on through with confidence, you're fine. Incredible route.
Well, great description of the route, however, and for the full "classic" experience, don't traverse right after the roof, nevermind the bolts (of an adjacent route), just keep going straight up through the final chimney and set up a belay.
Excellent route. The gear is a bit sketch at the small falke, but if you're accustomed to Gunks face climbing the moves are not bad and good gear is available at the next horixzontal.
The bolts are not for an adjacent cliumb. The traditional way to finish the climb was straight up after the roof through the chimney, but most everyone traverses right to the bolts to TR the route these days. The chimney may be dirty and grungy by now.
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