Tricia Fusco approaching the P1 crux of Bonnie's R...
Description
In 1937 Bonnie Prudden, married to Fritz Wiessner, shattered her pelvis in a skiing accident. A doctor told her, "You will always limp; no more skiing, climbing, dancing. And no children." Nothing like a promise like that to stir a climber to great things. Fifteen years later she did the historic first ascent of Bonnie's Roof after the legendary Hans Kraus backed down and handed her the sharp end.
Bonnie's Roof is a really enjoyable climb that launches up the most obvious right-facing dihedral in the Trapps. The Bonnie's Roof access trail is the next one after the High Exposure access trail, about a 17-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 13-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.
P1: Begin by jamming and stemming through several bulges to a high belay below the roof. One of the early bulges checks in at 5.9 and is the crux. This long pitch can be broken into two if necessary. 5.9, 130'.
P2: Traverse left across the steep face to the arete, following obvious chalked holds and gear placements, then head up to the top. 5.7, 50'.
P2 (Direct): Bonnie's Roof Direct is a highly recommended variation that continues up into the roof, slightly right, and then pulls through the roof at a steep thin hands crack (5.9++) -- wildly exposed!
Man O Man, what a sweet long 1st pitch. I got to lead the direct variation the 1st time and fell in love with it. The Direct finish has great gear and will keep your attention until the top. I remember looking over my shoulder 1/2 way throught those roofs and the exposure was awesome.
I can't believe the first pitch is harder than 5.8. Do you really think it deserves a 9+?
By eric larson From: aurora, co Apr 22, 2008 rating: 5.9
absolute must do, gunks classics, especially when finished via the direct line!
5.8 or 5.9 who cares.. this route is simply fun-friggin-tastic and should be done by all who climb 8's and 9s
By Paul Hunnicutt From: Boulder, CO May 1, 2008 rating: 5.9
The direct finish is so awesome. The gear is bomber and you can place a piece below and above the roof before you commit. Too bad the thin crack was so short though.
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