Becky Diamond protecting the lip in the creaky fla...
Description
P1: About 30' right of the huge right-facing corner, climb up past a left-facing flake to a small overhang with a fixed pin. Up and slightly left to a small right-facing corner, then diagonal up right to the overhang, heading for the obvious flake. Clear the overhang at the flake (long reach) then diagonal up left to a belay at a tree with slings and rings. 5.9, 90'.
This pitch used to be called 5.8+ but is 5.9 in the latest Williams guide. I'd say it's easier than that if you're 5'9", and harder than that if you're 5'6".
P2: Head up slightly right to a ledge. Then up trending left past a short left-facing corner. 5.5, 100'.
Protection
Standard rack
Location
This route is located at the far end of the Trapps, just before the S-turn in the carriage road where one exits for Sleepy Hollow. There is a yellow-blazed tree to mark the faint trail, which initially heads up a short, steep embankment. Follow blazes and cairns from there to a very large block, passing it on the right. Head left at the base of the cliff. The first pitch can be rappelled with one 60m rope. From the top of the 2nd pitch, walk left and rappel Casa Emilio, or walk further and descend Roger's Escape Hatch.
In the photo of the girl placing the #1 Camalot (what is it with # 1 Camalots), I chose to use a smaller cam and moved it to the right as far as I could, hoping it would be less likely to rip out due to the flex in the flake...
I'm 5'8" and I was able to reach the hold without performing any magic tricks.
Otherwise a great roof climb, especially when the feet cut loose.
While you're there, Casa Emilio at 5.4 has a nice top pitch; great for new leaders.
Great first pitch. Don't bother with the second pitch even though Williams gives it a thumbs up. It's got little to offer in terms of movement and the lichen is still pretty thick.
The Trapps
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