A short, strenuous classic with adequate protection. Start below a right-facing flake.
P1: Climb 15' up to a horizontal and traverse right about 20' to a crack/left-facing corner. Follow the corner with creative protection to a small ledge below the crux. Climb a steep face on edges with poor feet to a 2' roof. A large RP and small wired nuts protect this section well. Pull the roof to a short finger crack and cruise easier ground to the anchors. 5.10c, 60'.
A second pitch up to the GT Ledge is rarely done. A 5.11 variation climbs directly up to the right end of the traverse from the ground without protection, although a spot might suffice.
Location
The Slime Wall access trail, several minutes walk beyond the Boxcar Boulder on the carriage road, leads almost directly to the base of the route. This is about a twenty-minute walk from the Uberfall.
Protection
Gear to 2". RPs or equivalent and small cams will prove handy. There is a two-bolt anchor with chains at the top of the first pitch.
Had not done this route in few years. We did the direct start yesterday and it protects just fine with a blue alien. Despite the pro it is still a committing move just off of the deck. I have done this route many times over the years and it always seems hard. Many other routes get considerably easier when repeating, but not this one. Fun and challenging moves with good gear.
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