Swain gives this climb a 'R' rating for the first pitch. I found enough gear to make this a reasonable lead.
Use the same access trail as for Minty, just before the Minty Pine. This is about a 9-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 5-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. At the cliff, walk 35' left of Minty to the start of the route.
Start about 15'-20' right of Snooky's below some shallow right-facing corners.
P1: Head up into the right-facing corner above. The first crux comes at a weird move near an overlap. Place gear often in this area, since the gear is a little on the shallow and thin side. A 2nd crux comes at a committing smear and high step move (greasy feet). A #2 ballnut is useful for the final face, before the traverse left to the Snooky's bolt anchors. A fun pitch... 5.9, 100'.
P2/P3: Move the belay left about 30'. Climb the large left-facing dihedral to the top. (5.5)
Location
Located 20' right of Snooky's Return and 35' left of Minty.
Super first pitch, but this climb stays wet longer than any other in the Gunks (even Hawk) due to a persistent drip about 15-20 feet up. Lowe Balls helpful on this one.
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