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10,000 Restless Virgins 
48 
69 
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Comedy In Three Acts 
Commando Rave 
Coronary 
Creaky Joints and Trigger Points 
Credibility Gap 
Crimson Corner 
Dangler, The 
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Matinee 
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Middle Earth 
Minty 
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Middle Earth 

5.5

   

FA: Joe Kelsey and Roman Laba, 1967
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.5 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 250 feet
Views: 724 page views

Submitted By: Denis O'Connor on Apr 12, 2006


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Tricia Fusco nearing the top of the first pitch.


Description 

A deservedly popular climb with good first and third pitches.

P1: Climb pretty much straight up about 100', aiming for a nice ledge about 15' left of a large pine tree. There is a slight jog right and then back left in the middle of the pitch. 5.5, 100'.

P2: 4th class about 60' up and slightly left to the GT Ledge.

P3: [To be added]


Location 

From Absurdland, go downhill to the right, and about another 30' right once the trail flattens out.


Protection 

Standard rack. Rap stations at top of all 3 pitches.



Add Photo Photos of Middle Earth
About 1/3 of the way up the first pitch, nearing the spot to step back left a few feet.

About 1/3 of the way up the first pitch, nearing t...

Stepping left.

Stepping left.

Halfway up P1.

Halfway up P1.

Nearing the top of P1 on a beautiful day in July.

Nearing the top of P1 on a beautiful day in July.

Her is a nice little shot from the top of the second pitch.

Her is a nice little shot from the top of the seco...


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By Tim Schafstall
From: Newark, DE
Apr 2, 2008

The first pitch of this climb is superb and takes good gear. Good pitch for the new 5.5 leader.

P2 is easy 5th class, but still fun.

P3 is tricky, with a vague book description, potential ledge falls, and a harder than rated crux. I would not put a new 5.5ish leader on the last pitch.

A 60M rope is needed to rap from the large tree atop P1 or to TR this pitch.