This climb is located directly behind the Chockstone Boulders. Follow a trail before or after the huge boulders a couple minutes down the road from Uberfall.
Start up and right of Jackie 5.5 at a thin crack.
P1: The crux moves are right off the deck with pitons as gear. Angle up and left to a left-facing flake and pull onto the face on the left. Continue up fun face climbing to a roof with huge holds. Belay at a bolt anchor. 5.7, 80'.
P2: Follow a dihedral on the left to the top of the cliff. 5.4, 60'.
Descent: At various times, the trees at the clifftop may or may not sport webbing and rings for rappelling. The Uberfall Descent is the best option, as you won't be able to see or hear the busy cliff below.
A great (and challenging) variation to this is Classy 5.8. It climbs the crack to the right and traverses left under the roof. Pull through the roof right of the tree.
It's really too bad that P2 seems to have suffered "death by bolts" - I rarely see anyone climb it, now that the bolt anchors are there. It's a great little pitch, and it's really pretty quick to knock out and walk off; given the usual crowds, it's a good option!
By Joe M From: Rapid City, SD Sep 2, 2007 rating: 5.8+
This is a really fun route! There is one balancy, tricky move near the begniing but the rest of the route is 5.6-5.7
If the piton is loose, why not pull that sucker out? Then at least there'd be a hole that would be awkward to protect, but at least you could get something in.
The weak piton is in a seam - it's doubtful that a placement would appear. I'd imagine (though I have no experience with pitons) that it will need replaced with steel, which is politically tricky.
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