Jackie is a popular moderate climb to the left of Classic (5.7), which includes a fun roof on P1.
This climb is located directly behind the Chockstone Boulders. Follow a trail before or after the huge boulders a couple minutes down the road from Uberfall.
P1: Follow a crack system up and left to a short right-facing dihedral with a small overhang. Continue up the face to a larger overhang (piton) with big holds. Protect your follower, then move 15' right to belay at bolt anchor shared with Classic. 5.5, 80'.
P2: Angle left passing the overhang to the face above. 5.3, 80'.
Descent: It is possible to rap, but a better idea to use the Uberfall Descent.
Pitch 2 isn't really worth doing unless you want it just to say you did the whole route. P1 is really fun though. That big roof just before the belay ledge is way easier than it looks from the ground.
By Adam Catalano From: Albany, New York Jul 28, 2006
Love to finish this climb with various second pitches. You can go right and do P2 of Classic, or straight up through the bulge is fun too, or left a bit for the traditional finish. All are easy and fun.
Second pitches in the Gunks are where the fun and adventure come into play. Try wandering a little bit. It may be dirty but you can always downclimb if you don't like what you see.
P2 of Classic is a -great- finish to Jackie, and lets you avoid the clusterf***/crowds by walking off instead of rappelling.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Sep 29, 2007 rating: 5.5
I didn't think P2 was all that uninteresting, but I led the whole thing in one pitch so maybe that's why. Pretty nice exposure and view of the valley, too.
What Adam said about second pitches. Also agree going straight up through the bulge on P2 of Jackie definitely adds a bit of interest to the pitch.
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Oct 16, 2007
An awesome route. This was my favorite rte of the day. The rock is excellent, the length is perfect (just under 60m), the climbing is always interesting, and the gear is great. There is a fixed anchor at the top of each pitch.
I guess I should clarify. I love multipitch Gunks climbs. I just thought that the 2nd pitch of this one was nothing to write home about, especially when compared to the quality of the first pitch. In any case, Jackie was my traditional warmup climb every time I went to the Gunks when I lived in NY. It is a fantastic climb.
I thought pitch 2 was better than one. Beautiful open book crack climbing. I dont understand what makes the first pitch so quality? The easy overhang with a piton in your face? or the wierd face climbing? Not my style...
MJ --- I guess everyone has a different style of route that they enjoy. P1 of Jackie is one of my favorite pitches at the Gunks. I think the main attraction for me is the variety on the pitch. The thoughtful moves at the overlap, the bit of crack climbing to get to the overhang and the fun pull over it. All of this on beautiful clean rock with great pro at 5.5. I always look for the opportunity to get relatively new leaders who are new to the Gunks on it.
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