I saw chalk where people had started to the left, but you can just climb it directly and it's no harder than 5.7.
By mirandas-daddy From: Carlisle, PA Sep 1, 2008 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
What a great 1st route for my first outside TR. The close to the deck crux made feel like I was bouldering at the gym . . . it felt like home. I would add that I made the offset at the top so much harder than it had to be, note to newbies, learn to crack climb :-) Way fun send!!!
By J Antin From: Denver, CO Aug 10, 2009 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b PG13
First 5.7 @ the Gunks, felt more comfortable climbing straight to the good ledge instead of fiddling with gear at the bottom.
By J Antin From: Denver, CO Mar 25, 2010 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b PG13
Oh, the things that used to be: once upon a time, a piton protected the first moves. I even fell on it once. It's gone, but several different small cams will keep you safe off the deck (and it's a good idea to use them). There used to be a tree at the top, then came the bolts, then the tree went. Alas!
This is one of my favorite first-lead-of-the-season routes, just to see (or shock) what's in my lead head.
This is a great climb. Bring a c3 #2 if you have one, haven't found anything else that'll fit the first placement. Took 2 falls before redpointing... :p great climb, don't miss it! And TR'ing this one is really easy fyi.
Fun lead for the grade. Crux was getting off the ground with extremely polished footholds. You have the choice of putting in pro off the ground and taking away a good hold or no pro at the bottom and your choice of holds.
Those first couple moves are like 5.9 , if there is any kind of humidity in the air. Sooo polished,and slick. A small wire at the crux works ok , then you can use that much needed hold. It's way harder if you plug that slot with a cam.