Probably the burliest 5.8 in the Gunks. There's no one move that will shut you down but the climb just keeps coming and coming.
Start at an an obvious crack system about 40' downhill and left of the large Broken Hammer corner.
P1: The technical crux is low down (about 20' up) but by the time you get to the top every move is another crux. If you're not up to the task you can belay in the middle somewhere. 5.8, 150'.
There is a rap station (2 ropes) at the top. Or climb a really gross pitch to the top and traverse left to High E if you have just one rope.
Location
The Double Crack access trail is about an 18-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 14-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. This is a minute or two beyond The Yellow Wall. Double Crack starts at a prominent crack system about 40' downhill and left of the big dirty Broken Hammer corner.
Protection
Usual Gunks rack - bring lots of it if you lead this in one pitch and you're a wimp like me.
WOW! Amazingly sustained. No move is harder than 5.8, but no move is easier than 5.7. I used every draw, sling and spare biner I had on me (even my prussik cord). Lots of medium to large cams, up to #4, maybe even #4.5. No real small cams needed. Milk the rests on the ledge and in alcoves, cause it's all vertical.
If you don't have double ropes and are feeling a little daring, there is a sketchy chockstone with a sling and rap rings on it that I used today. I made it down safe, and it seemed relatively bomber. I would say use at your own risk/discretion. Ps -- awesome awesome awesome climb.
If you are worried about having your second hit the deck down low due to rope stretch, then have the second squat a few times before climbing and take in the slack. If you do that, you don't have to worry about them decking.
I climbed Double Crack last Wednesday, and the tat anchor 2/3 of the way up on a chockstone is still there. It is seriously sketchy-- I touched the chockstone and it moved. Someone should cut this anchor.
The route is staggering. One of the very best at the grade. The crux is in the first 20-30 feet, which is a little scary, but there's pro everywhere, it may be a little strenuous to place it if this route is at your limit. I found it eased off after the early crux, and there are several rest stances, but it does keep coming at you and it is steep throughout. The pump factor makes it seem harder than it is towards the top.
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