So there you are at the Arrow wall and all of the classics are occupied. What to do? Try Red Pillar.
P1: Climb an easy corner / gully just left of Three Doves. From the ledge on top, climb up clean rock to steeper ground. Place gear and work up and left, past an old pin, and up to the GT Ledge. Definitely on the stiff side of 5.5, 100'.
P2: On the GT Ledge, step right about 10' and look for an obvious left-facing corner taking you to the roof that marks the 2nd pitch of Three Doves. Climb broken rock to the corner and then climb it to the roof. A fun, well-protected slot takes you to the top. 5.5, 100'.
Descend via Arrow or Three Doves.
Location
Take the Arrow access trail and walk left when you get to the cliff. Look for the start of Three Doves, a 15'-high flake leaning against the cliff. Red Pillar is the obvious easy (4th-class) corner about 20' left of Three Doves. This is about 100' left of Arrow.
By Taino From: South Salem, NY Dec 27, 2006 rating: 5.5
The first pitch is a run-out horror show, and the route is not at all obvious. Survive that, and the second pitch is yours to enjoy. It starts off a bit manky and dirty, but once you're above the trees the pitch is great.
Not a good idea for a 5.5 leader to take pitch one--very PG-13. You'll need small cams; I used a hybrid Alien in a couple of places.
I found the first pitch reasonably protected, certainly not any "horror show". :-) No runouts, small to middle sized cams work best. Take care when scrambling onto the GT ledge - it has some dirt and rocks and is a bit sloped. The pitch goes more or less straight up from the top of the pillar, follow the biggest holds. P2 - fun, 2 interesting Gunks-atypical cruxes. Both very well protected by cams, hexes, or nuts.
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