Mike Amato leading the last pitch of Wrist, a typi...
Description
This classic link-up combines the best pitches of both climbs.
The Arch access trail is about a 3-min. walk from the Uberfall, just past a large boulder on the left with bouldering routes. This is just left of where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.
At the cliff, walk right until you're under the huge arch about 70' up the wall. Start at a small right-facing corner just left of the center of the arch.
P1 (Arch): Climb the short corner and continue up an easy runout face to a dirt ledge about 30' up. I put a runner on a little tree on this ledge, but it wasn't much good.
Walk right on the dirt ledge and climb up to the right side of the arch. You can place some good small cams in this section. Near the top of the arch, traverse right under a roof (crux) to a ledge with a big tree and rap slings. (Optional belay).
Climb up past the right side of the tree, then angle up left on easy, somewhat dirty ledges to the GT Ledge and belay at a pine tree. 160', 5.5.
There was some rope drag after I passed the tree, so it might be good to split this into two pitches.
P1 (variation): Just left of the big tree is a steep hand crack (Billy Shears, 5.9-).
P1 (2nd variation): Climb straight up through the center of the arch via a crack in the roof (Wick's Banana, 5.9).
P2 (Wrist): Go left to a right-facing corner and climb it to a roof. Traverse left under the roof, past some old fixed pins, to a stance on the arete (crux). Continue up the face to the top. 5.6, 100'.
Descent: Walk right and down to a bolted rappel route. Three raps with a 50m rope will get you down.
Protection
Standard Rack. Some small cams for the first pitch, and some hand-sized cams for the traverse on the second pitch.
The Trapps
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