This is a delightful 5.6, almost as nice as Madame G's or High E. The crux is as exciting as any 5.6 in the Gunks.
The first pitch is easy to locate: Use the same access trail as for CCK, just past the Andrew boulder. At the top of the access trail you'll see an obvious crack/corner system leading straight up. This is about 55' left of the huge Erect Direction corner.
P1: Climb up the face just right of an overhang and head for an obvious anchor on some small trees. Then follow the corner up to the GT Ledge. 5.5, 130'.
P2: Move right on the GT Ledge about 40' and climb up towards a large roof. This is the same as the start of the 2nd pitch of Erect Direction. Once you reach the base of the overhang, look for a fixed pin to the left and place a nut or two to back it up. Now the crux: cower left, down and around the corner to a stance. This is all balance - no big jugs to save your ass until it's over. Then up through a nice finger crack to the final corner (easier on the right-hand wall) and the top. 5.6, 100'.
If your second falls at the crux, lowering to the GT Ledge may be your only way to get back onto the rock.
By Adam Catalano From: Albany, New York Apr 30, 2006
Absolutely a classic climb. Tops High E in my opinion. Stay low through the crux. The crux arete move is a good distance from your last piece, so keep your head about you.
This is such a thought-provoking climb. Thoughts that were provoked: man, how do I start off? Do I follow that arch? Where's the damned piton? Oh crap, I'm slipped, will that piton hold? In other words, great climb.
Fabulous climb. The P2 business features beautiful rock, nice moves with outstanding exposure and position. I am just not very good at this star thing. In terms of exposure (and feeling exposed) and moves I think Moonlight has it over High E. However I guess it it the truly airy aspect (position) of High E's P3 that gets it the 4th star.
If High E is busy, don't hesitate to do Moonlight. I don't think you will be disappointed.
great climb, same level as Madame G and just as much fun. Good beta about staying low thru traverse. Easy route to find while climbing. I would give it 3 stars if I could figure out how.
By GMBurns From: Boston, MA Aug 12, 2008 rating: 5.7 PG13
P2 has some of the best climbing I've done in the Gunks. The traverse is well exposed and committing, and so is the face / crack at the top.
I found the first pitch to not be that great, but P2 makes this definitely worth it.
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