The obvious corner of Ants' Line. The crux is unde...
Description
A great line with decent protection within a decent distance all of the way.
This climb is the major corner 25' left of the classic climb Bonnie's Roof, and just right of the arete on Sleepwalk. A large tree grows near the base.
While there were lines on Bonnie's Roof on a crowded weekend when I was there, nobody was cued up for this climb.
P1: Stem and jam up the corner and finish up and left under the roof (crux) to reach a bolted belay station on the arete. 5.9, 80'.
Rap down or join the route 'Sleepwalk' to reach the top of the cliff.
From the anchor, one can TR Ent's Line, on the steep wall left of Ants' Line, which I believe to be a play on names and words--related to the large tree growing near the wall.
Tony, you must not be a local? This route is routinely gang-roped from dawn to dusk. It took me the better part of a season to find it free to lead. Late afternoon is a good time to seek it out, after the crowds have worn their friends out.
Logistics: the 2-bolt anchor is accessible by climbing Sleepwalk (5.7) around the corner to the left. That said, PLEASE PLEASE be more courteous than others if you're going to TR this route. It's possible to TR Ants/Ents from a gear anchor at the same place as the bolts. Also note: If you TR Ents, you *will* interfere with a leader on Ants - so don't do it. As a reminder, leaders have the right-of-way.
The route is steeper than pictures ever show it - when you lower off, you come out past the tree at the start. It's also a shady spot, nice in summer, brutal in winter. It can stay wet inside the corner longer than usual after a rain.
One final note: at my height (5'7" with a -2 ape), there's a steep 5.7/8 move to make before you can get gear in under the first roof, which is the first piece you'll want to place. After that, it's G all the way. Enjoy!
The Trapps
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