Perhaps a double entendre in the name? I am not sure. A good route with poor gear in places, it is unique. I found this to be a rough introduction to the Gunks.
The route starts 15' left of P38, a more popular climb with more protection.
P1: Climb up off of a boulder on unprotected moves (5.10-) to gain a crack, which is climbed to a horizontal. Follow the horizontal left for a few body lengths to a rift in the small overhang and climb up to some roofs above. Wander left through some small roofs, then up and right up a face to reach the top of the cliff.
Protection
Not that great. I felt pretty runout in a few places on insecure moves. Falling would be a pretty bad idea. Take a light rack with a normal range of nuts and cams and see what you can tinker in.
I've always thought this was the least likely looking route for the grade. It looks impossible. Five 5.9 cruxes, with the final crux usually the most difficult for me. The moves off the ground are dangerous, since the small nut you get is less than bomber. Then an excellent nut protects the second crux, the mantle/layback to get stood up on the ledge. If you're short, it could be real trouble there. You can traverse right for a better rest where the stretch between feet and hands is less. Traversing left past a small loose block in the crack is hard, and pulling onto the slab is another crux. The undercling layback left is scary, but not 5.9 once you've done it once or twice. The final ceiling can be desperate, because you're pretty pumped by now, and the finger holds are just pebbles. Belay by wrapping the rope around a very large (10' diameter?) block on top.
I once led this in my leather Peuterey ice-climbing boots and tied in with a bowline on a coil. It wasn't meant to be that way, but my ice-climbing partner was several hours late picking me up at the Trapps, and someone wanted to climb, so what could I do?
Swain's guide says the following about the route name:
"Legend has it that Goldner did stir up trouble when he aided this line. It was supposedly being saved for a free ascent!"
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Oct 16, 2007
An excellent route. I did this the same day I did Nosedive and Retribution, and I found it to be by far the best, and also the hardest. This seemed very sustained, though there are many rests, none of them are super great (except the rest below the big roof traverse). This felt pretty scary to me, perhaps because it was the first 5.10 of the day, and my first day trad climibng in several months.
I used a #0 Metolious TCU and a #6 BD Micro nut end-to-end for the first crux. I wasn't really psyched on either of them. I used a #2 TCU at the first horizontal to protect the '2nd crux', but I wasn;t too psyched on that either. I think using a nut as Ivan recommends would be better.
The crux for me was the mantle to the horizontal about 15 feet up. This wasn't really that hard once I did it, but I hesitated for a long time, pondering my gear and the big block that I would land on if I blew it. SPOILER ALERT: for the matle, I threw my right foot up first, with my hips sagging left of the 'line', then underclinged the black chip with my right hand, and pushed it out. Not hard once you commit.
The route traverses a lot, so it seems like even if you're not that far from good gear, any fall would be ill-advised.
I didn't have any difficulty with the roof undercling, but I can see how this would be hard for others. Good body tension and foot coordination is important here. I was a little surprised at the top. I figured it was over, but I found the finaly moves to be thought-provoking. This is a really engaging route that keeps your attention the entire way.
i'm used to staring at crack lines, so it took me a while to figure out where this goes. once you start climbing, it just kind of keeps leading you along until you think you have dead ended, then a passageway appears, usually traversing to another avenue. very interesting. some slippery feet, paddling them up to the next grippy rock, hand traversing, a little of everything. be careful of a loose horizontaly block about 1/3 of the way up. double ropes helpful, as well as some fitness for placing gear in awkward positions.