CCK Direct is such a classic line that Williams lists it as a separate climb in his Trapps guidebook, so we'll list it separately here too.
The CCK approach trail is about a 15-min. walk from the Uberfall, and an 11-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. Look for a huge boulder (with bouldering routes and chalk) on the left. The CCK trail starts just past the boulder.
At the cliff, go right and up to get to the start of the route. Locate a huge right-facing corner; this is the route Updraft. CCK starts about 15' right of Updraft, at a small left-facing corner.
P1: Climb the short corner and angle up right to a left-facing corner. Climb the corner to a roof, then move left and climb a crack to the GT Ledge. Belay at a big oak tree with rap slings. 5.6, 120'.
P1 (variation): Climb the first pitch of Erect Direction, a crack system on the left wall of Updraft, and traverse right to the oak tree. 5.8, 120'.
Doing the first pitch of Erect Direction is a great way to start CCK Direct, especially if you've already done the first pitch of CCK.
P2: Climb above the oak tree to a ledge and roof. Get pro (.5 Camalot) in a horizontal, step down, traverse right and make a tough mantel move past the overhang to a stance (5.8 PG-R). Climb up left-facing flakes, and continue straight up through tiered overhangs (small cams, some reachy moves) to the CCK crack. Climb the crack to the small roof at the top. When you see the pin leading right, go straight up over a small bulge to an alcove beneath the roof. From here, work left about 10' to the edge of the roof and go up a short handcrack (crux) to the top for a spectacular finish. 5.9 PG-R, 120'.
Descent: Walk right about 175' to a notch. Walk down the notch to the bolted rappel route by The Last Will Be First. 3 rappels with one rope get you back down.
(Thanks to John Peterson for the description of the second pitch).
Protection
Standard Rack. Maybe some extra hand-sized cams for the first pitch of Erect Direction.
simply brilliant climb... if you think the original CCK route is good.. do the direct! three overhangs in 1 pitch.. plus the classic CCK flake... only downside is no airy traverse!
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