From the top of the first easy pitch, looking down...
Description
One of the better 5.4s in the Gunks; a long approach and undistinguished first pitch keep the crowds away.
This climb is at the far end of the Trapps, almost at the S-turn in the carriage road, about a 25-min. walk from the Uberfall.
Look for a buttress just to the right of the broken area that marks Roger's Escape Hatch. Scramble up to the right of this buttress (no trail here!) and then up behind it. Ledges lead to the top of this buttress, the start of the route.
P1: Climb easily up somewhat vegetated slabs aiming up and right for a huge tree. 5.0, 50'.
P2: Climb straight up clean, aesthetic white rock to the top. 5.4, 100'.
An easy descent down Rogers Escape Hatch is available - walk left a few hundred feet to a cairn. Some downclimbing is involved.
By Tim Schafstall From: Newark, DE Apr 22, 2008 rating: 5.2
Guidebook rates this climb as 5.2. Everyone raves about it and although P2 is fun on cool rock, P1 is a vegetated easy slab where the only skill required is threading your way through trees. Worth doing if you are down that way, but IMHO not worth the walk down just for this route. FWIW, most people disagree with my impression of being worth the walk.
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