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f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
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YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Fritz Wiessner, Minty Warren, Betty Woolsey, 1941
Page Views: 13,357
Submitted By: John Peterson on Feb 25, 2006  with updates from Justin Andre

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Hole on P2


A justly popular beginner's outing. This route is easily located by finding the "Minty Tree" - the first significant pine tree on the left side of the carriage road. An access trail leads straight to the climb from this tree. This is about a 9-min. walk from the Uberfall or a 5-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

P1: Climb a right-facing dihedral to a ledge, then work left and up aiming for a severely leaning pine tree. 5.3, 60'.

P2: Start up a corner and immediately step around left and climb a face past a couple of pins to another corner. Again, climb up and the around left. A hole in a flake here provides some unique pro. Up the face to a pin and then on up (crux) to easier ground and the GT ledge. Belay at a rap anchor. 5.4, 120'.

P3: The usual route climbs an easy crack off the right side of the ledge. 5.2, 50'.

A much more worthwhile finish is the "Minty Overhang", rising directly above the belay tree. A pin marks the spot when you pull through. 5.5, 50'.

Descend either by walking far left to the Uberfall, or walking not very far at all left to a double-bolt anchor, between this route and Snooky's There is another two-bolt anchor at the top of first pitch of Snooky's .


Standard Gunks rack.

Photos of Minty Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 5.3 can't get much better!
5.3 can't get much better!
Rock Climbing Photo: At the start--Natalia on her first day climbing.
At the start--Natalia on her first day climbing.
Rock Climbing Photo: Robert leads P2 of Minty.  Photo by Chuck P.
Robert leads P2 of Minty. Photo by Chuck P.
Rock Climbing Photo: Curious scene on the last rap coming down from Min...
Curious scene on the last rap coming down from Min...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ritwik leading the Minty Overhang
Ritwik leading the Minty Overhang
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay I used for the top of P1. There is a horribl...
BETA PHOTO: Belay I used for the top of P1. There is a horribl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex taking a break after pulling the 5.5 roof var...
Alex taking a break after pulling the 5.5 roof var...
Rock Climbing Photo: The original finish to the right of the roof
The original finish to the right of the roof
Rock Climbing Photo: The 5.5 overhang
The 5.5 overhang
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber following Minty's steep 2nd pitch.
Climber following Minty's steep 2nd pitch.

Comments on Minty Add Comment
Show which comments
By Taino
From: South Salem, NY
Dec 27, 2006
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

The original Minty route goes up the right-facing corner from the pine tree ledge belay. If you go that way, it is indeed 5.3. The variation of stepping left onto the face and going straight up past "the hole in the rock" goes more 5.4+.

By adrenalated
From: Denver, CO
Jun 15, 2008
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

Ever had a day when you just didn't feel like climbing something difficult? Do this climb.
I wasn't a huge fan of the Minty Overhang, but the rest of the route is fantastic.
By doligo
May 9, 2010
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

One of the best 5.3s in the Gunks (the other is Beginner's Delight), and yes, you have to step on the face - the exposure is wild! Plus the corner is another route - Tipsy Trees.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Jul 28, 2011

A must climb for anyone learning to lead. I've led the first two pitches several times. Good near vertical climbing at times, and it's actually 5.3 The crux move is at the bottom, if you're taller it's much easier. Pitch 3 is okay but not worth the extra effort of having to head over to the Madame G's rap (plus there's sometimes a line there). Madame G's is more like 300+ feet climber's right, fwiw.

I will continue to rap after pitch 2.
By Galen Rahmlow
From: Woodbury, MN
May 1, 2012

The belay at the end of the first pitch is in rough shape, best to build one.
By kenr
Jun 9, 2012
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

The crux (for non-tall people) of the route is at the start of P1, dealing with small footholds and not well-placed handholds alongside the low right-facing corner (I'd say at least 5.4). Leaders should make sure their followers are well-protected from above on that move.

That "severely leaning pine tree" is a good thing to aim toward in P1, but an awkward spot to belay from. More comfortable to instead to go past that pine tree and build a gear anchor at the base of the Right-facing corner. (Or continue even farther + higher before stopping to belay).

Climbing straight up that Right-facing corner is an obvious thing to do, but it puts you on a different climb, "Tipsy Trees". Stepping around left is a bit intimidating -- but also one of the things that makes Minty one of the more interesting easy routes (and better than Tipsy Trees). Going that way does not raise the difficulty rating of the climb, because the P1 crux is a harder move.
(Anyway it's true that some leaders choose to avoid that section by temporarily switching to Tipsy Trees, then traversing left a bit higher up to rejoin Minty below the next higher right-facing corner.)

The "hole in the flake" is one of several threaded protection opportunities on Minty, so if you enjoy that sort of thing, bring lots of runners and look carefully.

Above the GT ledge, the main route is not so interesting and my memory from years ago is that the overhang variation isn't much more so. Therefore I normally stop the climb at the GT ledge, walk right (north) on the ledge like 20-30 feet to the Tipsy Trees route at an obvious big tree, and rappel off that. With double ropes this is a rather nice clean rappel line all the way down to the bottom. With only one rope I forget how it works -- I sorta think you have to diagonal a bit to the north to reach a lower tree or something for a second rappel.
By kswissto
Oct 17, 2013

Crux of P1 is a bit height-dependent. If you're tall, it won't seem bad. If you're shorter, it's more of a 5.4. Rest of the climb is standard 5.3.
By Byron Igoe
Jul 21, 2014

There are no rappel stations on this route, so you should plan on building your own anchors and going all the way up. I saw that someone bailed from the leaning pine tree on P1 with a girth-hitched sling and locking carabiner, and they came back the next day to retrieve them.

On the second pitch, there are quite a few loose flakes. Be careful what you pull/stand on. Also, I would not thread the hole in that long thin flake as protection. There are plenty of safer options.

Building an anchor to the right of the leaning pine tree allows you to TR Friends and Lovers.
By Eriks Rozners
From: Binghamton, NY
Oct 12, 2015
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

The 5.5 finish on P3 is awesome, but committing for the grade. The moves through the jugs when pulling the roof may be 5.5, but felt 5.6ish to me. Compared to another classic, Jacky's roof, the roof on P3 of Minty is harder. However, the challenge is not the roof itself. The challenge is to get to the jugs safely. Coming in below the roof is on relatively small holds. To get to the jug above the the first overhang is a slippery unprotected move that requires finesse and balance. It is not for beginning 5.5 leaders. If you miss the move, you will deck out on the ledge, which will be ugly.
By wivanoff
2 days ago

Someone (assume GCC) added bolted rap anchors at GT ledge and below GT ledge. Rap from the top is still on the tree.

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