Another classic Gunks 5.7 pitch, sustained and interesting.
The V-3 access trail is about an 11-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 7-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. This is just past a sitting boulder on the right. At the cliff, look for a crack directly below a large V-shaped notch at the right end of a roof band.
P1: Climb the crack and corners, and move right into the exposed V-notch. Continue up a flared chimney to a 2-bolt anchor. 5.7, 80'.
Rappel from the anchor.
It's also possible to continue with an easy pitch to the GT ledge, and then do a third pitch above the GT ledge, but this would require two ropes to rappel.
By Adam Catalano From: Albany, New York Mar 15, 2006
Don't even think about continuing up pitch 2 or 3. Dirty and no fun. The move through the V is awesome. I think there is a pin in there and I know there is a decent cam placement before exiting as well.
My favorite pitch in the Gunks, so far. The crux is wild and while not hard, it requires a good bit of creativity. Protect well in the big horizontal under the V notch, as your next piece is at the top of the V.
Did this years ago as an on-site. I remember cursing Hans Kraus below the v-groove and thinking what would I have done with hobnailed boots and hemp rope (well maybe things had evolved by '54). So I stood up and put my ass into it, then I laughed like hell.
The crack in the V stays wet for a while after rain. It's possible to stem and move through without using the holds in the back of the V. There is a Pin up right after pulling the crux. The bad pin before the roof does not need to be clipped, a cam placement is available just above it.
There's a good nut placement 3-4 ft below the pin, about mid-notch. It may also be worth mentioning that there are 2 ways to make the last few moves up to the notch. Climbing the crack in the steep right wall of the corner is the more obvious way, and seems to be what most leaders do their first time up there. But creative climbing allows a more direct approach, which can make for a better rope line, and is IMO more rewarding. It might just be 7+ however.
Thought this was rather awkward getting into the v notch. I was stemmed (upper back, shoulders and head) on one side of the V with my feet on the other. Somehow I managed to turn into the V, using the hand holds in the back of the V and then up and out of the V. Did not feel exposed, just awkward.
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