Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
The Trapps
Show routes:
Select route...
10,000 Restless Virgins 
48 
69 
Absurdland 
Airy Aria 
Alley Oop 
Anguish 
Annie Oh! 
Ants' Line 
Ape Call 
Apoplexy 
Arch 
Arch to Wrist 
Arrow 
Asphodel 
Baby 
Badfinger 
Bag's End 
Balrog 
BB Route 
Beatle Brow Bulge 
Beginner's Delight 
Belly Roll 
Betty 
Birdie Party 
Bitchy Virgin 
Blackout, The 
Blistered Toe 
Blueberry Ledges 
Bold-Ville 
Bonnie's Roof 
Boston 
Bunny 
Cakewalk 
Calisthenic 
Carbs and Caffeine 
Casa Emilio 
Casablanca 
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) 
CC Route 
CCK Direct 
City Lights 
City Streets 
Classic 
Coexistence 
Cold Turkeys 
Columbia 
Comedy In Three Acts 
Commando Rave 
Coronary 
Creaky Joints and Trigger Points 
Credibility Gap 
Crimson Corner 
Dangler, The 
Dennis 
Directissima 
Directississima 
Dirty Gerdie 
Double Chin 
Double Clutch 
Double Crack 
Drop Zone 
Drunkard's Delight 
Easy Overhang 
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) 
Ent Line 
Erect Direction 
Eyebrow 
Face to Face 
Fall, The 
Falled on Account of Strain 
Fancy Idiot 
Feast of Fools 
Finger Locks or Cedar Box 
Fitschen's Folly 
Friends and Lovers 
Frog's Head 
Frustration Syndrome 
Frustration Syndrome Direct Start 
Funny Face 
Golden Showers 
Gory Thumb 
Graveyard Shift 
Grim-Ace Face 
Groovy 
Han's Puss 
Harvard 
Hawk 
High Corner 
High Exposure 
Higher Stannard 
Horseman 
Hyjek's Horror 
Interstice 
Into Thin Hair 
Ivan and the Saum 
J'accuse 
Jackie 
Jacob's Ladder 
Jane 
Jean 
Junior 
Kama Sutra 
Keep on Struttin' 
Ken's Crack 
Kligfield's Follies 
Last Will Be First, The 
Laughing Man 
Laurel 
Le Teton 
Limelight 
Lisa 
Lito and the Swan 
Lone Ranger, The 
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst 
Maria 
Maria Direct 
Maria Redirect 
Matinee 
MF 
Middle Earth 
Minty 
Modern Times 
Moonlight 
Mother's Day Party 
Nemesis 
Never Never Land 
Never Say Never 
Nice Crack Climb 
No Glow 
No Man's Land 
No Picnic 
Northern Pillar 
Nosedive 
Nurse's Aid 
Oblique Twique 
Obstacle Delusion 
On Any Monday 
P38 
Pas de Deux 
Peregrine 
Phoebe 
Pink Laurel 
PR 
Precarious Perch 
Proctor Silex 
Proctoscope 
Raubenheimer Special 
Raunchy 
Red Cabbage 
Red Pillar 
Retribution 
Rhododendron 
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) 
Ribs 
Ridicullissima 
RMC 
Roddy 
Scene of the Climb 
Sente 
Shockley's Ceiling 
Silly Dickin 
Simple Suff 
Sixish 
Sleepwalk 
Snooky's Return 
Something Interesting 
Son of Bitchy Virgin 
Son of Easy O 
Space Invaders 
Splashtic 
Spring, The (P1) 
Squiggles 
Squiggles Direct 
Stand, The 
Star Action 
Sting, The 
Stirrup Trouble 
Strictly From Nowhere 
Sundown 
Supper's Ready 
Susie A 
Tennish Anyone? 
Thin Slabs Direct 
Three Doves 
Three Pines 
Three Vultures 
Throne, The 
Tipsy Trees 
Tomorrow and Tomorrow and Tomorrow 
Tough Shift 
Trapped Like a Rat 
Travels With Charley 
Triangle 
Trigger Point 
Triple Bulges 
Try Again 
Turdland 
Twin Oaks 
Updraft 
Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth 
Ursula 
V-3 
Ventre de Boeuf 
Walter Mitty 
Wasp 
Wasp Stop 
Welcome to the Gunks 
Wet Dreams 
Where Fools Rush In 
Wild Horses 
Willie's Weep 
Winter, The 
Wisecrack 
Wonderland 
Wrist 
Yellow Wall, The 

Baby 

5.6

   

FA: Fritz Wiessner, Mary Cecil, Betty Woolsey, 1941
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 140 feet
Views: 933 page views

Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Feb 24, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (23)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

BETA PHOTO: Jeremy leading the second Pitch of Baby, an outsta...


Description 

If you can't climb wide cracks, this route will seem a lot harder than 5.6!

From the Uberfall, walk about 2.5 minutes down the carriage road, past the big corner and roof of Matinee, to a huge boulder just below the cliff. Take the access trail just beyond the boulder, and angle left to the cliff, on the left side of the huge boulder. Spot a crack that widens to an offwidth; this is the route. It's about 30' right of Matinee.

P1: Climb the crack to the wide section. Place a #3 and #4 Camalot for pro, and commit to the offwidth (crux). Continue up the face above to a big ledge with lots of loose rock and a bolt-and-chain anchor. 5.6, 80'.

P2: Climb a left-facing corner and an overhang to the top. This pitch can be sandy after a recent rain. 5.6, 60'.

Rappel from slings on a tree back to the top of the first pitch, then rap from the bolts and chains to the ground.


Protection 

Standard Rack. Bring a #3 and #4 Camalot for the offwidth. Bring a #5 Camalot if you have one! If you don't have a #4 or #5, be prepared to run it out on the offwidth.



Add Comment Comments on Baby
Show which comments
By Paul Crowder
Mar 9, 2006
rating: 5.8

This is a classic Gunks sandbag. The offwidth is really challenging, and I'd rate this thing at 5.8 on any day. Hats off to the folks who put this thing up, 'way back when.

By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Mar 15, 2006

I agree that the first pitch can be tough through that wide-crack section. The 2nd pitch is always a fun way to finish the day.

By Brian Adzima
From: Boulder CO
Oct 3, 2006

I think originally there was supposed to be a chockstone in the offwidth section. Now that it is long gone the route is a little more stout than 5.6. I believe I used a #11 hex at the crux.

By Crimpper
Jul 10, 2007
rating: 5.6

I had a blast on this climb! I think the crux on the first pitch looks more daunting than it really is. Though some big pro would make this a bit easier. I dropped a knee in for a sweet, comfortable jam and got a piece in right above the crack to pull over it. Over the first and with a BIG belay ledge - The second pitch is a must as well and it will bring back some comfort to those who did not enjoy the crux on the first with a cozy corner and finger crack.

By losbill
Jul 16, 2007
rating: 5.6

Really scratching my head on this one. I see some people gave Baby two stars while giving Maria 4 stars. I just don't understand it.

The first pitch of Maria is a throw away. The second pitch is a great corner, but so is the the second pitch of Baby. The third pitch of Marie is short but a way fun corner with a great, thoughtful, prototypical Gunks overhang to pull at the top. As good as the Maria overhang is. the overhang at the end of the second pitch of Baby is just dang good fun to pull over! I enjoy it as much if not more than the Maria overhang.

Finally, on Baby, with the first pitch, you have more variety of climbing than Maria offers. The first pitch is great. I just simply don't understand all the angst some people have with the dreaded "off-width"??? Crimpper's comment put it in perfect perspective. It is a fun move and one you don't often get to experience at the Gunks. After that you have some quality climbing up the twin cracks to the GT Ledge.

To offset the folks that rated Baby 2 stars and Maria 4 stars I going 4 stars here, even though I would be more comfortable rating both at three stars. Thus far in my Gunks climbing career, Madame G's is the 5.6 climb I'm holding above all others. Can I give it 5 stars? The bottom line is Baby and Maria are both terrific climbs well worth doing more than once.

By asmith
Oct 11, 2007

Great climb. One of my favorites. Love the second pitch. The first is only hard if one never has done offwidth. Otherwise it is very easy 5.6 climbing.

By Tim Schafstall
From: Newark, DE
Apr 2, 2008

The famous rock in the P1 off width that you could use for pro and a handhold has been gone for a few years now, making the crux a tad harder and neckier w/o a big cam.

Please do not rap this route for descent. The ledge atop P1 is full of loose rock and there are always parties below. It's probably faster to use the downclimb at the Uberfall and it's definitely faster to use the downclimb at Radcliff.

By Michael G.
From: Latham, NY
Jul 23, 2008
rating: 5.6

I dont know about this route being sandbagged? I thought the whole thing was 5.6 all the way? Although I think there are a lot of sandbags in the Gunks. The O/W was not even the crux to me.