Follow the approach directions for City Lights. Frog's Head starts about 25' right of City Lights, at a crack in a white block.
P1: Climb the crack and turn a bulge about 25' up (crux). Continue up a small left-facing corner to a small ledge and a 2-bolt anchor. 5.6, 80'.
P2: Climb a short right-facing corner on the left and continue up to a thin crack. Climb the crack to a large, overhanging, right-facing corner. Climb the corner to the GT ledge and move 30' right to a 2-bolt anchor. 5.5, 80'.
P2 variation: Move left out of the overhanging corner about halfway up and continue up the face to the GT ledge. 5.5, 80'.
Has anyone ever seen the frog's head? I have done it twice in the past and never saw it. I think there is reference to it in the Gunks Select guidebook put out by Dick Williams.
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Sep 12, 2006
This is a good climb to link P1/P2 together for a long ~170ft lead.
The direct finish, climbing straight over the final roof instead of scrambling off left on the ledge, makes a more exciting finish to the climb. Cross the roof near an old ring piton, which fortunately can be backed up. With 60-meter rope, rap from tree back to P1 anchors. 5.6+
By Joe M From: Rapid City, SD Sep 2, 2007 rating: 5.6
This is a great, well protected climb and is really fun, but very popular as well. A lot of the route is really polished, but the holds are big enough not to make much of a difference.
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Sep 21, 2007 rating: 5.6
In reference to the first post--"Has anyone ever seen the frog's head?"
Yes, or I'm almost positive I know where it is. Located about 20-25 feet off the second pitch belay on the arete that makes up the right facing corner you climb to the right of. Look closely, and the profile of this elusive amphibian appears about midway up the arete.
Just did the first pitch of Frog's Head, traversed left at bolts to the other set of bolts, and did second pitch of City Lights. Made for a fantastic climb.
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