Climbing the runout face near the top of the first...
Description
City Lights is one of many moderate classics on this section of the cliff: Son of Easy O(5.8), Frog's Head (5.6), Maria (5.6+), Baby (5.6), and Pas de Deux (5.8) are all close by. You could spend the whole day climbing in this area, moving from one classic to the next.
With a short approach and several bolted anchors, this area is very popular. Fortunately, with so many great routes, at least one should be free to climb.
From the Uberfall, walk about 2.5 minutes down the carriage road, past the big corner and roof of Matinee, to a huge boulder just below the cliff. Take the marked access trail just below the striking, widening crack of Baby, and angle up right to the cliff. This will take you to the base of the cliff near City Lights and Frog's Head.
Spot a large oak tree right next to the cliff; City Lights starts behind the tree, at a thin crack with a triangular pod about 20' up.
P1: Climb the thin crack and make a slippery move into the pod on polished rock (crux). Continue to a ledge, move left and climb a right-facing flake. Continue up the face, trending left, following the easiest line. Traversing right about 20', then heading upwards, is similar in grade and protection. Climb a runout 5.5 section and a small overhang to a small ledge and a 2-bolt anchor. 5.8-, 80'.
P2: Move left and climb a steep right-facing corner to its top. Continue up the face above to a 2-bolt anchor on a good ledge. 5.7, 90'.
Descend via two raps with a 60m rope, or walk off via the Uberfall Descent.
By Adam Catalano From: Albany, New York Mar 15, 2006
Glad to see this graded up from the previous 5.7. The triangles move down low is tricky, the rest is just awesome climbing all the way up to the top. Don't miss out on the second pitch.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Sep 29, 2007 rating: 5.7+
The one hard move at the start is the only real reason to give this a 5.8 rating, but it's still a cool climb all the way.
Climbed p2 straight up from the anchors instead of out left.. was a bit dirty, but i felt it kept the grade 7 or 8- with decent gear. Pitch 1 was fun, and super exciting as the bottom crux was sopping wet!
You can also traverse right ~20' after you've cleared the steeper stuff on P1 - it's similar in grade and protection to the left variation. This option is preferable if there's another party on Pas de Deux, since the left finish overlaps with that route.
BETA>> my secret way of doing The Move on P1 involves an elbow jam / lockoff. It's bomber once you've got it!
tricky start and some routefinding on the second pitch. did it all in one pitch, a good exciting pitch for the grade. maybe not the best for someone breaking into the grade, or inexperienced trad climber.
Why would you stem the tree. There are good holds. The move through the pod can be done at 5.7 or also done to be made much harder if you climb straight up or to the right. Staying a hair to the left makes this 5.7.
The legality of tree stemming was always a hot topic at GunksFest (a now defunct climbing event that used to happen every Dec 26th). See http://www.tradgirl.com/gunks/paulina.htm for a picture of this highly questionable tactic.
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