Climbing the runout face near the top of the first...
Description
City Lights is one of many moderate classics on this section of the cliff: Son of Easy O (5.8), Frog's Head (5.6), Maria (5.6+), Baby (5.6), and Pas de Deux (5.8) are all close by. You could spend the whole day climbing in this area, moving from one classic to the next.
With a short approach, this area is very popular. Fortunately, with so many great routes, at least one should be free to climb.
From the Uberfall, walk about 2.5 minutes down the carriage road, past the big corner and roof of Matinee, to a huge boulder just below the cliff. Take the marked access trail just beyond the boulder, and angle up right to the cliff. This will take you to the base of the cliff near City Lights and Frog's Head.
Spot a large oak tree right next to the cliff; City Lights starts behind the tree, at a thin crack with a triangular pod about 20' up.
P1: Climb the thin crack and make a slippery move into the pod on polished rock (crux). Continue to a ledge, move left and climb a right-facing flake. Continue up the face, trending left, following the easiest line. Climb a runout 5.5 section and a small overhang to a small ledge and a 2-bolt anchor. 5.8-, 80'.
P2: Move left and climb a steep right-facing corner to its top. Continue up the face above to a 2-bolt anchor on a good ledge. 5.6, 90'.
By Adam Catalano From: Albany, New York Mar 15, 2006
Glad to see this graded up from the previous 5.7. The triangles move down low is tricky, the rest is just awesome climbing all the way up to the top. Don't miss out on the second pitch.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Sep 29, 2007 rating: 5.7+
The one hard move at the start is the only real reason to give this a 5.8 rating, but it's still a cool climb all the way.
Climbed p2 straight up from the anchors instead of out left.. was a bit dirty, but i felt it kept the grade 7 or 8- with decent gear. Pitch 1 was fun, and super exciting as the bottom crux was sopping wet!
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