The large roof on the first pitch is the main reason to climb this route. It's a blast!
The Strictly's access trail is the first trail right of where the East Trapps Connector trail meets the carriage road, about a 5-min. walk from the Uberfall.
This route starts on the face 25' left of the right-facing dihedral of Shockley's Ceiling, directly below a small tiered overhang.
The route itself is classic enough. If you climb all of the variations listed below, though, it's an uber-classic 5.7.
P1: Climb through a small tiered overhang near the ground. Wander up, aiming left towards the right-facing dihedral (the original route belayed here), then head up steep rock into the left-facing corner/roof. Work up into the roof, then escape right to the bolts (and protect your follower(s)!). Belay at bolts. 5.7, 100'.
P1 (variation): A better start is to the left in the left-facing dihedral of Travels with Charlie (5.7).
P2: Follow the crack above to a right-facing dihedral and a sling belay at a tree. 5.4, 70'.
P2 (variation): Follow the right-angling crack system and belay under Shockley's Ceilings. Finish on that route.
For a better, more consistent 2nd pitch, follow the thin crack up to a tiny tree, then move up and left on hero holds through small overhangs to the top. Good pro, fun moves, more exposure (5.6).
One of the great variations is called Oscar and Charlie...climb the dihedral and out the hero holds through the roof.
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Oct 29, 2007 rating: 5.7
I did this variation, it really makes this climb even more classic!
By percious From: Arvada, CO Jan 3, 2008 rating: 5.7+
Another nice variation is Strictley to Shockley. After the first belay, traverse right along the overhang and then up to a large belay ledge with a pin or 2 (5.4). Finish on Shockley's Ceiling.
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