Directissima is most commonly (if not always) done as a more difficult start to High Exposure. It kicks up the difficulty a few grades, but it delivers a first pitch that is almost as classic as High E's final pitch.
P1: Begin a little ways right of the original start of High Exposure, near the nose of the buttress. Climb up a ramp to a low roof and undercling around this roof and around the corner to the right (slick holds, some tricky gear). Continue up the face to the obvious belay ledge on the right side of the High Exposure buttress. A short pitch: 5.9, 60'.
P2: From the left end of the ledge, traverse straight left, clipping fixed pins as you go, almost to the arete. From here you have to perform a difficult long reach to a good hold (5.9+); well protected with fixed pins. Easier climbing directly up the very exposed arete. Belay on the spacious ledge as for the first pitch of High E. 5.9+, 120'.
To be assured of less rope drag, one can (as the Williams guide book describes) do a short traverse pitch from the top of pitch one to a small perch on the arete. That traverse pitch is the only 5.9 section.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Nov 16, 2006 rating: 5.9
I agree with Adam's comment, a better route description would list the standard four pitches. Combining pitches is just an added option. Also, there's no fixed pins on the P2 traverse -- you have to place gear as you go. It's an outstanding route from start to finish!
Seconding saxfiend...there are no pins on the traverse. However, there are pins after the traverse, on your way up to the nose-belay. I would recommend doing it in 4 pitches unless your team is solid.
words can't express how much i love this route... do it in 4 pitches, it's quick, saves rope drag and it's a fun short 5.9 pitch.
By eric larson From: aurora, co Apr 22, 2008 rating: 5.9
i usually link the first two pitches and dont have that much a problem with rope drag.. just keep long runners on everything. saves a bit of time
that being said, this is the BEST way to do high E as it makes for 3 or 4 pitches of spectacular climbing. the arete pitch is stellar
there is also a variation that avoids the hand traverse... when you pull around the bulge into the slanting corner, look up and there is a crack leading straight and meeting back up with the normal route just before the belay perch.. goes 10a or 10b i hear with decent gear
By eric larson From: aurora, co Jul 7, 2008 rating: 5.9
The variation climbs the crack that is slightly leaning to the right... Pull around the bulge down low to the stance, work up the rampy corner and then pull into the crack where you see the piton... the crack is thin so bring small gear! You'll meet up with the Directissima hand traverse about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way through it.. depends if you throw lefty or righty for the jugs! Link ground to GT in 1 pitch for yet another gunks spectacle!
Did the 10b variation. On the first pitch, right after you move under the roof, instead of going diagonal up right, go straight up a thin crack with a couple pins. Bring some small gear! Definitely recommend this, makes the Directissima even more directissima-ey.
The variation that he was referring to is not Doubleissima but a variation to Directissima. After coming around the nose on the first pitch of Dirrectissima you can go straight up a crack to the mini ledge on the nose instead of angling right to the bigger ledge before the 5.9 traverse. Doublissima is a completely separate line to the right.
You can def. do the the second and third pitch as one with little to no rope drag. Just add long runner to the traverse and the pin at the end and it is smooth running. Good climb.
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