Turdland is a great face climb just left of Never Never Land. It begins on a large pillar of rock that separates the Never Never Land area from climbs like Balrog and Commando Rave.
Curiously, the book rates it at 5.10d, but it seems highly contrived to do this route at that grade -- the natural course will take you up much easier rock -- even still the wall is steep and the climbing (and protection) is continuously interesting. A few bolts protect the upper face.
I don't know who this Josh Janes guy is but he seems to be right on top of things.
You would have to work REALLY hard to make this a 5.10d. Actually, it is a stiff 5.9. The protection is good, but it don't always look good...so screw your head on straight first.
There's a "direct" variation where you climb straight up at the last bolt that's 10 something. I did it once and thought it was not that hard nor that interesting. The standard way is to traverse right past the bolt and then up at 5.9. Dick has apparently incorporated the variation as the official way to do the route and hence the upgrading.
By Tim Schafstall From: Newark, DE Apr 2, 2008 rating: 5.9 PG13
Gotta agree with Ivan, the contrived 5.10d variation is neither fun nor the logical way to go.
Following the logical path this is a superb 5.9 climb with gear just when you want it. Move after move of fun.
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