This is THE standard for 5.9 routes at the Gunks. It is a must do for a visiting climber. The route is located to the right of Three Pines and to the left of the Mac Wall.
The MF access trail is about a 6-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 2-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. The trail leads to the base of the climb at a 20'-high thin crack. This is about 80' right of Something Interesting.
P1: Climb the crack and face below the overhang with a slight jog to the left. Place gear in the horizontal to the right and pull right through the overhang onto the small ledge. You will need to pull a few moves before you get your next gear. The final moves up and left through the headwall will test your endurance. A stimulating lead; 5.9, 80'.
P2: Traverse right though a left-facing corner and through the notch in the roof. Continue upwards to a horizontal traverse to the left. Follow the right-facing dihedral to the GT Ledge. 5.9, 80'.
MF is a blast, althought a scary blast. The 1st pitch wasn't over till I got to the anchor. The 2nd pitch roof is easy and has good pro. Not a good choice for your 1st 5.9. Also a great candidate for twins or doubles. That all said, it's a climb like Shockley's or Bonnies (with the Direct variation) that should be climbed every year until they confine me to a wheel chair.
This is an absolutely great climb! The first pitch is both pumpy and scary. Gear is not obvious above that roof, and it's all too tempting to keep making stenuous moves as the gap between body and gear grows! The second pitch is devious but easier in my opinion, and just as cool as it wanders up the beautiful face above. These two pitches, served with Dangler, make for three exemplary pitches of 5.9 climbing.
Essential route. Personally, of the three hard sections I found the first overhanging corner the easiest. Looks intimidating from stance after clipping pin, but just a matter of committing and grabbing big hold on nose. (Rope was behind my left leg and pinned me halfway through the sequence swinging onto face.) Bulge after that quite strenuous and requires more moves. Most folks probably consider roof beginning second pitch an afterthought. I did, and had to really pump to make it. Wonderful climb.
By eric larson From: aurora, co Apr 22, 2008 rating: 5.9
as the DW guide says, this is the standard 5.9 in the gunks. unfortunately it gets the top rope train run on it so it can be a pain to get on... but the beauty of the gunks is that if one three star climb is taken there is a pick of a million others!
In 1976 I had done a lot of 'Gunks 5.8s, and I asked around for an easy 5.9. Everyone recommended MF, and my climbing log from back then reads: "No falls, seemed fairly easy for 5.9." I did it 2-3 years ago, and it seemed pretty stiff for the grade. Time marches on.
great route and raises the eyebrow for the grade. i have only climbed at the gunks a few times, so i am not necessarily dialed-in, but it seemed fairly fierce for the grade. i thought it was harder than p-38, doubleissima, low exposure, nosedive, or probably any other 5.10 i have done at the gunks. for me, probably the hardest 5.9 i have done anywhere, ever.
the first crux seemed way improbable, but luckily you can always back down to a good rest, swear a bit, and go up and check it out again. it probably took me an hour of going up and down, peeking around the corner like a prairie dog (or chipmunk in your neck of the woods), saying "i don't see anything", repeat.... finally got through that part.
don't go celebrating in the end zone just yet! i thought the second crux was similar but more difficult than the doubleissima crux. maybe i was just trying to make it feel like my expectation of 5.9 face climbing. luckily you can climb up and down to a good stance and slowly work it out.
Did the direct version by accident. Whoops. Otherwise it was awesome and I definitely recommend it. DW calls it 5.10a PG-R. Pull solid moves up and left from the roof, after clipping the fixed pin. But you don't get gear in for a little while. I think a fall would be big but still safe.
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