I happened to be up there the day after the pine f...
Description
This is the best 5.3 at the Gunks. It is the steepest 5.3 that I have ever been on. This, the Mac wall, is another destination area, since there are a number of high quality routes nearby. One of the old pine trees is now missing due to an ice storm in 2002.
The Three Pines access trail is about a 5-6 min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 1-2 min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.
Start about 65' right of Anguish and 30' right of the obvious crack of Something Interesting, at a short block-filled corner containing a jutting block. Two huge pine trees can be seen above.
P1: Angle up and left into a left-facing dihedral. Follow this crack to a large ledge with a pine tree. 5.3, 60'.
(It is straightforward to combine P1 and P2 - just take care to keep your rope away from pine sap.)
P2: Continue up the right-facing dihedral with a large fat crack to your left. Finish on a large ledge with a bolt anchor. 5.3, 50'.
P3: Traverse right to a blocky left-facing dihedral. Pull right then work up the face above. 5.3, 50'.
Descent: three rappels with one rope using bolt anchors.
By Adam Catalano From: Albany, New York Mar 28, 2006
This route tends to close for much of the summer due to Peregrine nesting on the ledge atop pitch 2. There is already signs of frequent bird activity as of March 27, 2006, so bag it soon if you're interested. FYI - Something Interesting also closes because it uses the same ledge and rap station.
Not sure if its the BEST 5.3 at the Gunks (my vote would be for Beginner's Delight or Minty), but it sure is a fun route. Great pro the whole way, great exposure on the 3rd pitch, hard to believe its a 5.3. My first trad lead ever. Watch for rope drag on 3rd pitch.