This route is a highlight, at 5.10a, among the pure face-climbing routes at the Gunks. There are a couple fixed pieces of gear, but the majority of the gear is trad.
The Never Never Land access trail is about a 12-min. walk from the Uberfall, or an 8-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.
Start 25' right of Triangle (or 30' left of Absurdland) at the low point of the cliff, at a polished face with a bolt 25' up.
P1: Place a small piece in the horizontal, or have a spotter. Follow the seam with thin gear to the first fixed piece. Continue on thin face climbing, which is sometimes reachy. A piton is passed on the way to the headwall. The original route goes right, but the straight-up version is recommended and goes at about the same difficulty. An exciting lead for 5.10a!
Rap with one rope from 2 bolts on the ledge above.
awesome climb. seems improbable that feet will work in the crux section, but they will. crux well protected and the upper section backs off to 5.8 or so.
I think that you mean two pitons and one bolt. There has never been more than one bolt. It is not harder than 10a. If you tried going straight up from the bolt to the piton at the crux section then you will have found it harder. If you angled slightly left after the bolt then you will find it a bit easier as the holds are better. Fun climb, especially if you do the direct finish and don't move right up the easy groove.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
