This one of the best 5.10a pure face-climbing routes at the Gunks. There are a couple fixed pieces of gear, but the majority of the gear is trad.
The Never Never Land access trail is about a 12-min. walk from the Uberfall, or an 8-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.
Start 25' right of Triangle at the low point of the cliff, at a polished face with a bolt 25' up.
P1: Place a #2 ballnut in the horizontal or have a spotter. Follow the seam with thin gear to the first fixed piece. Continue on thin face climbing, which is sometimes reachy. A piton is passed on the way to the headwall. The guidebook mentions to go right, but the straight-up version is recommended. An exciting lead for 5.10a.
Rap with one rope from 2 bolts on the ledge above.
awesome climb. seems improbable that feet will work in the crux section, but they will. crux well protected and the upper section backs off to 5.8 or so.
RSS Feed
