Mike Amato firing the wild crux of Modern Times. ...
Description
Modern Times pulls a pretty wild roof on the second pitch -- hard to believe it's only 5.8+.
Use the High Exposure access trail to reach Modern Times. This is about a 17-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 13-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.
Start 30' left of High Exposure below a slabby left-facing corner.
P1: Climb the corner and angle right to a dirt ledge. Climb up and a bit left and pass an overhang (crux) to the GT ledge. 5.7, 150'.
P2: Go 20' left and climb to the top of a huge flake. Traverse right to a notch in the roof at the top of the wall (there's a small tree growing horizontally out of the roof). Pull the roof (crux), continue up right past more overhangs, and traverse right to a belay on a small ledge. 5.8+, 100'.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Feb 27, 2006
Fun face climbing on the first pitch, and classic, pumpy Gunks overhangs on the second. This route would be solid 5.9 at many other climbing areas. Two kneebar rests can be found on the second-pitch overhangs to ease the pump factor.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Mar 7, 2006 rating: 5.9
Regardless of its traditional grade, let's call a spade a spade. I think this route is 5.9... even in the Gunks.
The roofs seemed much easier the second time. A) Because I was following this time and B) because I used the killer undercling to reach over the first/largest roof. Gaining the final ledge is the crux for me, as the flakes in front of you are super loose (like don't grab them at all) and it requires a high right foot and SCARY manteling, with huge swing potential.
I believe it really is 5.8, but not if you try to pull the last roof too early. You really want to do a low traverse, and then mantle once you get to where the hands and feet are better.
The most sand-bagged route in the Gunks. So many people have fallen off this route. The most exposure you can have without a license.
Try the exciting variation that I call Post-Modern times, if you dare...and you feel up to a 5.10a or 5.10b pump-fest. From the tree that sticks straight out from the cliff in the last pitch....instead of going up and right...go straight right...your hands stay at the tree level as you traverse for 20 feet. As you go, do chin-ups to place big (Yellow and Blue Camalots) in the perfect crack. As you traverse, your foot holds move farther away and then come back again. Just before you get to the grassy section, pull up through the 1-foot roof and finish on the clean face above.
Tell me how you like it.
By mobley From: Haven, Ct Apr 21, 2008 rating: 5.9