Jeff Arliss on the upper half of the first pitch, ...
Description
Nurse's Aid in a nice climb that launches up the wall just left of Feast of Fools. The face below the roof is challenging -- there is a scary section in an orange plaque of rock that is very difficult to protect. From here, step left and continue up and through the massive roof. Considering Gunks grades, I found this roof to be quite reasonable at 5.10c. The pitch stops at the GT Ledge.
The second pitch continues up a left-facing overhanging corner system, but loose rock and lackluster climbing detract from its quality.
Great 2nd pitch. Do not miss it. Stay on the overhanging cracks 3-5 feet right of the easy corner. Fantastic finish (Blue cam helpful to protect the traverse)
I agree, Paul. I think Josh might have traversed off the second pitch a little early, underneath the great crack, without knowing what he was missing. It would be easy to do because it's invisible from below and an unlikely line. I can't imagine anyone would describe that traverse as "lackluster."
Ok, I seconded this climb and found the transition from the little corner out onto the traverse quite hard. I am short and felt like it was a HUGE reach to get around the nose on the traverse itself. Once there, I felt reasonably secure, as I did the traverse in frog position. I had my hands on the horizontal and my feet on the wall like a frog. Slow moving, but, it worked.
To me, this was the scariest climb I have ever done. I felt like i was going to wing off into space. I knew that if I fell on the traverse, I would never get back on the wall.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
