Directississima (AKA Doubleissima), is a fantastic crack climb on the right side of the High E buttress. It's well protected, very sustained, and long.
Climb up to the Directissima ledge and belay, or continue onwards, heading straight up off the middle of the ledge into the meat of the climbing. The crux comes in pulling through a small roof/notch. Belay at the top of the High E buttress and rap just right of the climb.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Feb 22, 2006 rating: 5.10b
Best done as a single pitch on a 70M rope to the very top of the wall. Gear is a little sporty in places. Great route; one of my favorites at the Gunks!
For a super punchy route, instead of going left under the last roof to the 5.8 finish, go up and right to join Lakatakissima (10b R/X) and finish on that. The really amazing part was belaying IN A TREE at the top of that route.
The route goes right from the climber in the first photo and then up to a good-sized ceiling. It's really pumpy to get gear (mediocre gear) where the climber is, but you really want it, since moving right is vague and 9ish. The roof above is hard due to the pump, then steep and still pumpy 5.8 or so above that.
Incredible route, but PUMPY. Great gear can be had just about everywhere, if you're willing to sacrifice a potentially greater pump. I felt the bulge just off the belay ledge was the crux of the climb. The small roof had very decent holds all through it. The difficulty was that I was pretty pumped by the time I got to it.
Super fantastic route. I don't know if the real crux is just above the ledge, but I can tell you that this is the part that scares me, as the gear is less than perfect and a fall here would be an ankle cracker. It's been a couple of years, but I think a blue alien just off the ledge helps. Caveat Emptor on this section, but it is one of my absolute favorite Gunks 10's. If you're up to it--do it.
Dick Williams writes about this route "small holds on steep rock". The holds are actually pretty decent except for P1. Many times you come upon a bucket, but get no real rest, because of how steep it is. The first 5.8+ pitch to the belay ledge is a bit tricky with gear, nuts and a ballnut will come helpful. The technical crux on P2 comes right off the small belay ledge. It is not bad though, certainly not a 5.10b. Contrary to Byron, I placed two bomber nuts right off the ledge which were quite helpful. The rest of the pitch, including the crux overhang are technically easier, but the pump is really a factor here. P3 is delightful - steep climbing on good holds with one more mantle overhang and sugar white rock on the top.
Gear: nuts, small to mid-sized cams, #2 or #3 camalot below the overhang on P2.
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