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Welcome to the Gunks 

5.10a/b PG13

   

FA: Andy Cairns & Jim Kolocotronis - 1973
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 1,898 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Becky Diamond on the first roof.


Description 

Welcome to the Gunks is a nice little single-pitch climb that passes through 5 separate roofs!

The access trail for Welcome to the Gunks is about an 8-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 4-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

Start 15' right of Fall To Grace, in the center of a low roof with two crack/flake systems.

Approaching the first roof is difficult and scary -- a few unprotected moves on slopers will get you to some decent gear. The rest is well protected, but the climbing is unrelenting.


Protection 

Standard Rack.



Photos of Welcome to the Gunks Slideshow Add Photo
Becky below the second roof.

Becky below the second roof.

Tricia Fusco above the second roof.  The fixed anchor for Laughing Man is to the right of her.

Tricia Fusco above the second roof. The fixed anc...


Comments on Welcome to the Gunks Add Comment
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By Ivan Rezucha
Mar 7, 2006

This used to be rated 5.9. We thought it had five 5.9 cruxes, the slab, the first roof, the scary moves to the second roof, the second roof itself (the actual crux), and the roof on P2. The slab approach was always scary for me, and the second roof never felt easy. If you do P2, you have a bunch of junky climbing above the P2 crux as you wander up and eventually a bit right to a tree that you can belay and rap from.

By Dana
From: Philadelphia
May 30, 2008

I've done this route 5-6 times. The face climbing (about 5.9-) after the first roof is not well protected: if you fell, you'd hit a ledge. Certainly, if you climbed the initial unprotected slab and the first roof without difficulty that section shouldn't stop you, but the potential for a nasty fall is there if you make a mistake.

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 30, 2009

I thought this was the hardest 5.10 that I have ever done at the gunks. Perhaps it was late in the day (our last climb), but I rarely fall on a gunks 10. I fell three times on this climb. The slab was difficult (hard to reach the big holds for this short climber), the roofs were easy relative to the R section on the orange rock. I took a fall trying to move from the slopers to the horizontal under the roof. All in all, a hard climb, I thought much harder than Feast of Fools, Interstice, Mothers Day party, Retribution, Nose dive etc. I am not sure I would repeat this any time soon.