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Coexistence 

5.10d

   

FA: FA: Jim McCarthy, Phil Jacobus, John Hudson, & Peter Armour - 1962
FFA: Rich Goldstone & Jim McCarthy - 1967
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 1,771 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006


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Description 

Co-Ex is a fantastic single pitch climb on the MF wall. It is considered "the" 5.10 Gunks testpiece... It's rated 10d, but with the correct beta it should feel, oh, about 11a. It's unbelievable to me that the FFA was done in 1967.

Start 20' right of Try Again.

Climb up to a steep face to a small roof. Pull this roof (crux), and step left and up to a bolted anchor.


Protection 

Standard Rack.



Comments on Coexistence Add Comment
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By Ryan Curry
Oct 18, 2008

A fantastic route with fun moves and a somewhat devious crux. It should be noted that although this climb is mostly well-protected, the opening moves past the first piece of gear are not, but the climbing is relatively easy. Besides that the route eats gear.

By JASON A.
Apr 14, 2009

what kind of climbing is this? crack, face, etc. .

By Robert McGibbon
From: Princeton, NJ
May 11, 2009

Here's a better description. The start is at a left facing corner right of Try Again. Pull the start and head straight up to the fatty ledge 20ft up. Walk right 15ft along the ledge, and then follow the broken left-angling crack up, and through the overhang. Once you get to the broken left-angling crack, there's TONS of chalk. Beta is not that devious.

By JASON A.
Jun 10, 2009

thanks

By paulmadry
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.10d

Be aware that there is 15-20 feet of R/X 5.8 climbing to get to the ledge. Crux is well protected.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Aug 6, 2009

I don't believe that's correct Paul. I remember getting good gear below the ledge. I'm thinking it was around a #0 TCU or something like that.

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 8, 2009

I seconded this climb, so my comments are based on that perspective.

A fun start to some good face moves lead to a hard crux move. I nearly pumped out trying to make the move over the roof.

UPDATE: The start of this climb is permanently altered. A climber placed a cam behind the flake (about 10 feet up) and fell. The cam held, but, the flake (large chunk) broke off.