Ask any climber what distinguishes the Gunks from other areas and the first thing they'll say is "the roofs!" That, or "the sandbags!" but you should look at the description of Coexistence for more info on that.
The Erect Direction access trail is about 15 minutes walking from the Uberfall, and 10 minutes from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. Look for a huge boulder (with problems/chalk) on the left. The access trail starts just past the boulder.
At the cliff, go right and up to get to the start of the route. Locate a huge right-facing corner; this is the route Updraft. Erect Direction starts at a hand crack on the left wall of this corner, about 20' left of the start of CCK.
P1: Climb the nice, varied hand crack to the GT Ledge. 5.8-5.9, 80'.
P2: Above you (you may need to move the belay to the left) is a massive roof system. Climb up the right-facing corner and undercling the first of the roofs (5.10c), and pull out of the roof and into another nice right-facing corner with some so-so gear. At the top of this corner, and below the biggest series of roofs, a cramped hanging belay is available, but I recommend running the pitch into the next one. 5.10c, 70'.
P3: This is the crazy pitch on the route -- make sure you get to lead this! Trend left off of the belay and begin working your way up a series of outrageous roofs with jugs galore. Plenty of opportunity for cutting your feet loose, heel-hooking, and hanging from gear. The roofs can be tackled more or less directly, but the easiest path is to traverse slightly left along the lip of the first roof, then back right on the second roof. Cruise to the top of the wall and bring up your partner. 5.10a, 60'.
Gear: You don't need any big gear for the offwidth on P2. Bomber pro is available just below the first overhang, and then, if you are desperate, #0.3 small camalot placed to a shallow crack on the small face with good holds before you reach to the undercling in the roof. Once in the crouched position, it's best to reach right and place a bomber nut in the crack at the bottom of the right-facing corner. There is a hidden pin inside the crack on top of the open book on P3.
By chris deulen From: Portland, ME Nov 10, 2008 rating: 5.11a/b
A #4 would fit perfect in the offwidth section, with a bomber nut just below it. Also, I got a great purple tcu in the roof seam. I thought this protected fine. The wild overhang just after the start of the 3rd pitch is amazing. Get on this thing and go for it!
Finally got on this climb and I loved it but found it to be the hardest 5.10 that I have done in the Gunks. I find Coex, Matinee, Graveyard and few others to be easier than the 2nd pitch on this. I also had the 3.5 camalot with me which makes the move into the off width very safe as it is bomber at the very top of the flare and really eliminates the necessity of getting gear into the under cling crack when you make the standup move. Instead you can peek around the corner and get in a good cam at the base of the right facing corner. Now that I know the climb it will go easier but that 2nd pitch will be hard no matter what. The 3rd pitch will be a fun jungle gym now that I know what is coming and know what gear to use.
Great Climb, maybe the best that I have done at the that grade. Highly recommended for anyone climbing at that level, you won't be disappointed.
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