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Retribution 

5.10b PG13

   

FA: Art Gran, Peter Himot, 1958. FFA: Jim McCarthy, 1961
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 75 feet
Views: 1,058 page views

Submitted By: Guy Humphrey on Feb 21, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: Nosedive on the right, Retribution on the left. No...


Description 

This is the companion route to the left of Nosedive. I thought that this route was harder than Nosedive, but once you figure out the move it is not too bad.

P1: Follow a right-facing dihedral to the left of Nosedive to a small roof. The gear leading up to the roof and past the crux is not a good as you would like. Once you make the hard move at the roof, the climbing eases off. Head right at the top, and join Nosedive at the 2-bolt anchor. Rap with one rope.


Protection 

Gear to 2.5"



Photos of Retribution Slideshow Add Photo
In the crux.  (photo by Dave Merle)

In the crux. (photo by Dave Merle)

Above the crux. (photo by Dave Merle)

Above the crux. (photo by Dave Merle)

Jeff Arliss underneath the crux

Jeff Arliss underneath the crux

Nearing the top

Nearing the top


Comments on Retribution Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jonathan Nickel
Jun 5, 2006

A great route! 5.10b, three stars, PG gear (a reasonably safe onsight lead). Not as sustained as Nosedive but with a harder crux.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 16, 2007

I found this route to be much easier and less sustained than Nosedive, probably because I'm "short". There's basically one hard crank on a rounded crimp pulling over the roof. The rest is much easier. Great rock, but its getting pretty polished.

By ben kenobi
From: Portland, OR
Oct 12, 2008

I found that my key piece of pro at the roof ate up the key undercling; it was a choice between a solid piece or good hold. Great route.

By JASON A.
Apr 27, 2009

the undercling isn't "key" there is a solid meat hook on the arete. this leaves the undercling open for a perfect yellow alien.