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Nosedive 

5.10b

   

FA: Ted Church, Krist Raubenheimer, 1956. FFA: Jim McCarthy, 1961
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 944 page views

Submitted By: Guy Humphrey on Feb 21, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: Nosedive on the right, Retribution on the left. No...


Description 

This classic route is located about 75' to the left of Horseman near the start of the carriage road.

P1: The climb starts in a left-facing dihedral and works up to a small roof on the left. Clip a fixed pin and work up the short hand crack. The crux is the bulging finger crack above. The finger locks are bomber, so don't forget to enjoy the exposure. Traverse left to a bolt anchor.

Rap with a single rope.


Protection 

Gear to 2" with extra finger-size cams.



Add Photo Photos of Nosedive
Entering the upper corner. It's about 5.8 or 9 here. The gear to this point is a little dicey, with a couple bad fixed pins and some small nuts. Above, as the climbing gets harder, the gear gets better.

Entering the upper corner. It's about 5.8 or 9 her...

Starting the crux.

Starting the crux.

Beginning the barn door layack. This is a decent rest. If you're tall enough you can get to this point by straightforward climbing on the right, else it requires a few tricky moves directly up the corner.

Beginning the barn door layack. This is a decent r...

In the middle of the layback. BTW, these photos are from 2004.

In the middle of the layback. BTW, these photos ar...

Finishing off. This used to be the crux for me, but two things happened: I got better at off-size finger jams, and a piece of rock broke off at the lip, creating a good foothold.

Finishing off. This used to be the crux for me, bu...

The early stages of Nosedive.  There's pretty much no gear up to this point, but ok gear can be found once your heands reach the ledge.

The early stages of Nosedive. There's pretty much...


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By Paul Crowder
Mar 9, 2006

Super, super classic. My memory is, per Ivan's comments on his photos, that the face holds on the right, at the start of the crux, are the way to go, followed by a blind move left into the crack. I'm kinda tall, so that may not work for everyone. Super exciting.

By Mike fenice
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 7, 2006

This is a great route that should be on everyone's tick list. Ivan's pictures and route description are spot on. The gear is a bit funky in places but nothing out of the ordinary. The uper crux moves remind me of "Space Invaders".

By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 16, 2007

I enjoyed this route much more than Retirbution. I also found it to be substantially harder. I'm 5'7", and I found my reach was about 3" too short to use the face holds out right below the bulge. Climbing the corner directly was by far the hardest section of the route, and harder than the crux of Rertribution.

I was a bit unnerved by the lack of gear below the first roof, but the rest protects well. The moves going over the first roof are great. The splitter-crack-bulge at the top was really fun too. For me this was 'rattly fingers' size, so I wasn't yarding on bomber locks, but I was easily able to lieback. The new foothold created by the broken hold was key (great heel-holk-rockover). .5 Camalots were perfect for this crack.