Climber preparing to start the exposed and excitin...
Description
High Exposure. The climbing itself is flawless, but when one considers that the FA was done by pioneers Hans Kraus and Fritz Wiessner in 1941, it is even more incredible! The name, of course, is completely appropriate for this must-do Gunks mega-classic.
The High E buttress is an obvious right-facing arete that is visible from the drive in from New Paltz. It is located about halfway along the base of the Trapps, right of the MF area and left of Bonnie's Roof. The High E access trail is about a 17-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 13-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.
P1: Begin the climb in a chimney/stemming corner left of the arete. Climb up this corner until it is possible to traverse right across the face to a fantastic triangular belay ledge right on the arete below a large roof. Belay from natural gear or sling the huge boulder on the ledge. 5.4, 100'.
P2: This is the money pitch, and is just about as exciting as 5.6... or 5.7 or 5.8 for that matter... can be. Climb up from the ledge (it's easiest to begin at the left side) and traverse right to the obvious place to turn the corner and pull the roof. There is a blind jug up there that facilitates this move, but the exposure is immediate and the rock is steep! Continue up the face past gear, jugs, and fixed pins, trending left back towards the arete, until you top out. Exhilarating! 5.6, 100'.
Descend climber's right from three bolted rap stations -- only one rope needed.
Also consider the Directissima variation instead of doing the original first pitch. Done this way the climb checks in at 5.9 and is three pitches, but you get what you pay for -- a first pitch that rivals the second in terms of quality.
A great top pitch. If you have solid leading skills, don't talk yourself out of leading it. Yes it can be intimidating the 1st or 5th time pulling throught the crux from under the roof to the side wall. Oh well, that's Gunks 5.6 and this climb has bomber hand holds all the way up the 3rd pitch, great gear and enough air to keep you talking/smilling/skitzing and bragging about that pitch forever...
Once you pull around the roof and are onto THE WALL don't forget to breathe and smile.
The bad thing about the 3rd pitch is it's not 500' long.
***Warning***
One of my partners has gotten a #1 Camalot off the route, left behind by a previous party. Another partner 2 weeks ago picked up another #1 Camalot off the ground at the start of Directissima.
Such a great climb! Definitely one of my all time favorites! The first two pitches can be combined into one if you have a 70m rope. The move out onto the High E wall is such a thrill and the rest of the pitch is just super fun! Can't wait to do it again!
Better yet, use Directissima to the GT ledge and finish on the money pitch of High E.
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Oct 29, 2007 rating: 5.6
Did this once Saturday night by headlamp, then again last night (sunday) by headlamp, this climb is incredibly classic, no matter the cicumstances of the ascent.
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Nov 8, 2007 rating: 5.6
Your description of the first pitch being 100 feet is inaccurate if you are describing it as two pitches. You can just get to the GT ledge with a 50m rope (165 ft) if you do the traverse and have long runners.
The first 2 pitches (as described by Williams) can easily be linked into 1, but you will likely have significant rope drag towards the end, even with long runners.
I really wish I could give this route 4 stars, but I can't. Let's be honest, it's overrated. The final pitch from the GT Ledge to the top is totally worth the hype; it's awesome. But the first pitch sucks balls, and that's all there is to it.
The Trapps
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