The 5.7+ third pitch of Cascading Crystal Kaleidos...
Description
The Trapps is the largest and most popular cliff at the Gunks. Almost three miles in length, with climbs ranging from 30' to more than 250' high, it is home to many classic climbs of all levels of difficulty, and sports almost 500 routes. It has many exceptional easy and moderate routes, and draws large crowds on weekends during the spring and fall.
The Grand Traverse Ledge (GT Ledge) starts halfway up the cliff near the route Easy Overhang, and runs north (right) with only minor breaks almost the entire length of the cliff.
A gravel carriage road runs the entire length of the cliff, and provides an easy hike below the cliff to get to your route of choice. Access trails, marked with yellow paint blazes, are used to get to the cliff from the carriage road. Once at the proper access trail, your approach through talus boulders to the cliff is no more than 5 minutes long. The hardest thing for new climbers to the Gunks is to find the correct access trail. Note the hiking times and the landmarks in the guidebook to find the correct trail. The cliff is obscured by trees, so it's often difficult to spot the routes from the carriage road. If in doubt, ask someone where to go; the locals are friendly and helpful.
The Uberfall, near the left side of the Trapps, can be used to downclimb from the top of the cliff to the carriage road. Mohonk Preserve rangers sometimes hang out here on weekends, checking to see if climbers have their passes. Water is available from a spring near the Uberfall, and an outhouse is located nearby. There is a kiosk with a message board here as well.
Rogers Escape Hatch, toward the right side of the cliff, can be used as a downclimb for routes in that area. Many routes have a rappel descent, either from trees or bolted anchors. The Overcliff Road is a trail that runs the entire length of the cliff along its top, and can be followed to the Uberfall or Rogers Escape Hatch to descend.
The Trapps has many excellent climbs for all levels of ability.
Getting There
From New Paltz, take Main St. (Rt. 299 West) to the T-junction with Rt. 44/55. Go right, up the hill.
If you're climbing on the right side of the Trapps, you can park at the Warwarsing lot, just past the Mohonk Preserve Visitor's Center. Take the East Trapps Connector Trail, consisting of many stone steps, up the hill, meeting the carriage road just left of the Strictly From Nowhere access trail.
If you're climbing on the left side of the Trapps, continue past the hairpin turn, up to the top of the hill, and go just past the steel bridge to the West Trapps parking area. From here, the West Trapps Connector trail will take you to the carriage road and the climbs on the left side of the Trapps.
Parking is also available in a lot at the hairpin turn and in a small lot at the top of the hill just before the steel bridge. These lots are posted for 30-minute parking, but this limit is not enforced by local or state police (time-limit signs may have been placed by the Mohonk Preserve). From the lot at the hairpin turn, walk through a hole in the fence to access the East Trapps Connector Trail. This is the shortest and fastest way to access climbs on the right side of the Trapps.
Guidebooks
The Climber's Guide to the Shawangunks: The Trapps by Dick Williams, Vulgarian Press, 2004, is the definitive climbing guide to the Trapps. Often called the "gray Dick" because of its gray cover, this guide gives detailed info on all climbs and variations in the Trapps. Quality ratings, protection ratings, photos with route overlays, and line drawings showing the access trails make this an indispensible reference for the Trapps climber. Also included are sections on Gunks geology and climbing history.
Other guides:
The Gunks Select, Dick Williams, Vulgarian Press, 1996. Contains the best routes at the Trapps, the Near Trapps, and Skytop. (Out of print).
The Gunks Guide, Third Edition, Todd Swain, Falcon Press, 1995. All-inclusive guide to The Trapps, the Near Trapps, Skytop, and Millbrook.
The third pitch of this mind-boggling route will have you wondering about Gunks ratings: how can an exposed, overhanging, pumpy hand traverse, with so-so hands and poor feet, only be rated 5.7+? It will feel like 5.9 to the first-time visitor, but the adrenaline rush and pump factor will leave you thrilled when you finish.The Thin Slabs access trail is just before an 8-forked tree on the left. This is about a 12-min. walk from the Uberfall, and ...[more]
The Trapps
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