Cherokee 

FA:  Ivan Rezucha, Uwe Bischoff, 1981 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  100 feet Views: 29 page views Submitted By: Dana on Sep 22, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>> A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Climb up and right to the shallow open book. Move up to good holds (crux)and a decent stance. Diagonal right to a right-leaning fault and at its top, climb past reddish rock to a large block. Go straight from there to the pine tree on top of the buttress.
I haven't done the rest of the route, so I was a bit hesitant in posting this, but this pitch is worth doing as an objective in itself. The crux is well protected and brief and there are lots of nice moves above.

Location 

See the description for Wolf and the Swine. Cherokee is left and down the hill about 50 feet from the start of that route, left of the very large Animal Farm block.

Protection 

Tiny cams such as Metolius OO and 0 are needed to protect the crux. Otherwise, a standard 'Gunks rack will suffice.