A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
Climb a short face to the overhang. Over the hang at the thin seam (crux) then straight up the face to a small pine. Abseil from there or traverse up and right to a larger and more secure tree. Several long, powerful reaches but a brief crux. The climbing after the crux is easy, but I didn't find the protection to be abundant or of reassuring quality.
Location
Not too easy to find unless you are pretty familiar with the cliff. Try and find the start to Animal Farm, a large, bright orange and overhanging left-facing corner system. This is 300 feet or so after the popular and obvious right-leaning crack of Easter Time Too. From the Animal Farm corner, go left for approximately 100 feet and look for a small overhang that is 15-20 feet up which has a thin seam in the face immediately above; that is the start.
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