A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
Pitch 1 is better than it looks. Climb the corner to first overhang and exit left onto the face. The crux is on the face after stepping out from corner, and it protects well. Climb face to a comfortable belay at a left facing corner. (75 ft). Pitch 2 is a beautiful line. Follow ceilings right until just below a scary looking block. Airy and gorgeous. Only a little lichen at the end makes the exit (left of the jutting block) exciting. This should get cleaned off with time. (60 ft). Highly recommended!
Location
Far end of the Near Trapps, 20 feet right of Mainline's start. Begin on a boulder pile with laurel bushes, at a big right facing corner capped by an overhang. It can look a little overgrown. Descend by a 5-10 minute walk off down Smede's Cove trail.
Protection
All sorts of cams. I would recommend a 4' sling in the corner before heading out onto the face. At the top out, the belay tree (no anchors) was far back, so set up communication system with your second before heading up.
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