A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
Climb 25 feet up the left-facing corner its top (crux 1). Exit right (crux 2) and then move up the face to a rap anchor. Another new one-star 5.7 route in the Nears, although it does have its charms. It seemed a bit hard for the given grade of 5.7.
Location
Find Yum Yum Yab Yum; the start of Silver Bullet is 35 left of that, at a rather indistinct left-facing corner with a roof 20-25 feet up.
Protection
Standard 'Gunks rack and a few very small cams and wires. The protection getting to the roof is placed behind a shallow, loose flake.
Williams' new guide calls this 'G' rated with ball nuts. All these and little c3s go behind a quite distinctly hollow flake. If the flake blows on a fall, this route is an 'R' as contact with the ground below is guaranteed.
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