Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
The Near Trapps
Show routes:
Select route...
Akidlleati vytoowouldn'tyou 
Alphonse 
Ambien Knights 
As the cliff turns 
Back to the future 
Baskerville Terrace 
Beauty and the Skink 
Bird Cage 
Birdland 
Boston Tree Party 
Broken Sling 
Bush League 
Bush Lite 
By the Toe, direct start 
Catnip 
Cherokee 
Criss Cross Direct 
Day Tripper 
Disney Point 
Disneyland 
Double Quacks 
Eastertime Too 
Elder Cleavage Direct 
Far from the Madding Crowd 
Farewell to Arms 
Fat City Direct 
Fat Stick 
Fat Stick Direct 5.10b 
Fossil Fools 
Gelsa 
Good Friday Climb 
Gouda Climb 
Grand Central 
Grease Gun Groove 
Gunks Burghers 
Halfbeak 
Hang Ten 
Harvest Moon 
Hold the Mayo 
Honky Tonk Woman 
Infinite Space 
Inverted Layback 
Kansas City 
Keystone Kop 
Layback 
Lean and Mean 
Left meets Right 
Like a Box of Chocolates 
Little White Mushroom 
Loose Goose 
Mac-Reppy 
Main Line 
Moxie 
Near Side of Far, The 
One Way or Another 
Orc Stone 
Outer Space 
Outsiders 
Positively 4th Street 
Punch and Judy 
R2-OK? 
Roseland 
Route Awakening 
Saving Face 
Saving Grace 
Scuttlebutt 
Seniors in Motion 
Serfs' Up 
Shadow Nose, The 
Shitface 
Short and Sassy 
Silver Bullet 
Spinal Traction 
Summer Breeze 
Swells Good 
Te Dum 
To Be Or Not To Be 
Transcontinental Nailway 
Up in Arms 
Up Yours 
Void Where Inhibited 
Void Where Prohibited 
Whet Stone 
White Pillar 
Wolf and the Swine 
Yellow Belly 
Yellow Ridge 
You're in the wrong place, my friend. 
Yum Yum Yab Yum 

Void Where Prohibited 

5.11+

   

FA: Romano and Rezucha, and possibly "a climber from New Hampshire", 1975
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 75 page views

Submitted By: JSH on Jun 27, 2009


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>

BETA PHOTO: Void Where Prohibited, aka the Left Void. It may ...


Description 

This route, also known as the "Left Void", is either the hardest 5.8 in the Gunks, or the easiest-looking 5.11. When you walk up to it, it looks deceivingly easy - 5.8 at worst! - but that folly is soon revealed. The crux is the obvious open book, and is well-protected; the climbing above is runout 5.9 to the rappel tree.


Location 

The Voids are the two 5.11s on the front side of the Outsiders block, almost at the end of the Nears.


Protection 

Standard Gunks rack; be sure to have a selection of very small nuts.



Comments on Void Where Prohibited Add Comment
Show which comments
By paulmadry
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c

Hmm. It does look easy. I am 5.9 and it is 5.11+ . For 5.11 (height) it is 5.11- or easier. Did it make sense?

By Ivan Rezucha
Aug 7, 2009

Interestingly, the Swain guide lists the FA as Rich Romano, and Red Dick lists the FA as Rezucha. I'm pretty sure Rich and I did the first full ascent including the upper pitch, which I led with sucky gear, but it's likely Rich had done the bottom crux earlier. I don't remember "a climber from New Hampshire". If Rich had done the crux earlier, it was with someone else, perhaps this New Hampshire person.

By TradByron
From: Uxbridge, MA
Oct 3, 2009

It totally look easy, and it absolutely is not (just like it says)! Nice moves, though--give it a go!