A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
TR of first pitch. I can remove if someone adds a...
Description
The first pitch has an interesting bouldery start then reach a thin crack and goes left over an overhang to finally reach a belay in a pine tree.
Location
About 100 feet downhill of Lonely Challenge, and just right of the very right-leaning ramp/crack of Up Yours. Start 10 feet left of a small boulder standing very close to the cliff.
Protection
Standard rack - get a spotter for the bouldery start.
Make sure you have tiny cams (blue-black aliens) for the 2nd pitch. Run out the begining of 3rd pitch- (it seems like 5.5 if you pick the right route) to avoid rope drag.
The new Williams guide (brown Dick? maroon Dick?) describes P2 incorrectly. The original P2 went up an obvious 5.8 jagged crack that had been done earlier as a variation of a nearby route. That 5.8 crack was one of the "cleavages" that led to the name Elder Cleavage.
My what a climb. P1 is hard, thin and has a set of moves under a flake that feel very awkward and slippery (feet). P2 is beatiful with a very cool (but easy) roof move. The crux (for me) were the moves right up under the roof, getting there was a bit tricky.
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